SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 22 , 2020. THE WASHINGTON POST EZ EE R9
The weather’s
chilly, the leaves
have fallen, and
the holidays are
fast-approaching.
We’re about to
commemorate the
end of the
growing season —
and the imminent
end to a year that
has been difficult on so many
levels — with Thanksgiving, a
traditional celebration of the
year’s bounty.
There’s a wine for that: A wine
of this vintage, fresh as the
memory of harvest and raw as
the experience of the year,
unpolished by time, a reflection
of the emotion of the moment.
This style of wine is called
nouveau. The best known is
beaujolais nouveau, released on
the third Thursday of November.
It’s easy to dismiss beaujolais
nouveau as a marketing
gimmick meant to sell wine
quickly. An apocryphal tasting
note I haven’t been able to trace
to its original writer says it
“smells like cash flow.” But the
tradition dates to the late 19th
century, when the wines would
finish fermenting in cask during
their journey to Lyon or Paris.
The modern incarnation was
popularized in the 1970s and
1980s by Georges Duboeuf, a
leading negociant and champion
of beaujolais who died in early
January at 86.
Beaujolais nouveau is typically
made by a technique called
carbonic maceration, in which
the grapes (the red gamay in
beaujolais) are put in a tank with
carbon dioxide to exclude
oxygen. The intact grapes
ferment on the inside, eventually
bursting and producing
effusively fruity aromas and
flavors. The technique and the
resulting wines are not subtle.
Beaujolais nouveau tends to
taste distinctively of banana.
Subtlety is not the point — fun
and celebration are.
Nouveau is more than just
beaujolais. In Austria, the fresh
vintage is celebrated at heurigen,
small taverns operated by
wineries, especially around the
capital, Vienna. And many U.S.
wineries are producing nouveau
wines, not just to rush juice out
the door and into their bank
accounts, but to put a coda on
the year and maybe just to have a
little fun.
This year, Old Westminster
Winery in Maryland made anouveau of chambourcin, a
hybrid grape that reflects
Maryland’s wine history and is
enjoying a bit of a renaissance in
the Mid-Atlantic. “It’s a raw,
unfiltered agrarian product less
than one month removed from
the vine,” says Drew Baker, who
runs the operation with his
sisters, Lisa Hinton and Ashli
Johnson. “That’s why we love
this style — it’s just fermented
grape juice without any
makeup.” The Old Westminster
Nouveau is now in the local D.C.
market, especially in organic
grocery stores.
In Virginia, Ankida Ridge
Vineyards produced its second
nouveau from young gamay
vines planted on the steep Blue
Ridge slopes northwest of
Amherst. The nouveau is the
hobbyhorse of Christine and
Dennis Vrooman, while their
son, Nathan, “takes care of the
serious wines,” Christine
Vrooman says.
“I think this is a great year to
drink nouveau,” she says. “The
sooner we get this vintage drunk,
the sooner we can forget 2020.”
In California’s Sonoma
County, Scribe Winery made a
delicious nouveau, its sixth
vintage from pinot noir grown in
the Carneros region. Pinot
“without the makeup” is a good
description. Made in the
beaujolais method, the wine is
young, fresh and raw, obviously
untouched by oak and just a
pure expression of good young
fruit.
“Fermented with native yeast,
with no additions of sulfur, and
bottled unfiltered, there’s a
purity, vibrancy and freshness to
this wine, intended to be enjoyed
as soon as possible,” says AndrewMariani, who founded the
winery in 2007 with his brother,
Adam. “You could age the wine,
but why delay the gratification in
a year like this?”
Martha Stoumen made her
first nouveau last year in honor
of the birth of her son and
named it Patatino, or “little
potato.” Stoumen, based in
Sonoma County, told me her
inspiration for nouveau came
from tasting freshly fermented
wines with other winemakers.
“Any barrel could be a nouveau,”
she said.
This year’s Patatino is extraspecial to Stoumen. Using nero
d’avola grown in Mendocino, she
fermented some of the juice as a
rosé and blended it back into the
rest, vinified as a light red.
Stoumen made lighter reds this
year, limiting the time juice was
in contact with grape skins
because the skins could have
smoke residue from the wildfires
that devastated Northern
California wine country this
harvest season. So her nouveau
is a poignant expression not just
of this year’s harvest, but of the
year itself.
“Consumers may notappreciate the emotional stress
of this vintage in California, but
it’s interesting to put out a wine
from this year that’s supposed to
be a celebration of the harvest,”
Stoumen says. “It shows what
Mother Nature gives us. This is
what the harvest is.”
We have all experienced the
emotional stress of 2020 in our
own way. Enjoying a nouveau
may help us come to terms with
it and put it behind us.
[email protected]McIntyre blogs at dmwineline.com.
On Twitter: @dmwine.In 2020, we deserve ‘nouveau’ wine, a vintage meant to be fun and drunk now
PHOTOS BY JENNIFER BEESON GREGORY/THE WASHINGTON POST
Drinking nouveau wine doesn’t mean just beaujolais; lots of options, including local ones, are being
made these days. Just look to Virginia and Maryland for bottles to add to your Thanksgiving table.Wine
DAVE
MCINTYRE
The choice of wine for your
Thanksgiving feast is personal, and
I encourage you to enjoy a wine
that is special to you. But here are
some suggestions, including food-
friendly (sparkling, rosé) and
thematic (local). All of these should
play well with a smorgasbord of
foods and help set a holiday mood.
— D.M.
GREAT VALUE
Thibaut-Janisson Winery, Xtra
Brut NV
(Extraordinary)
Virginia, $32
Claude Thibaut’s Blanc de
Chardonnay, introduced in 200 7,
helped open doors for Virginia wine
in restaurants and retail shops
across the country. A few years
ago, he offered this Xtra Brut, a
slightly drier version. Both are
classy, sophisticated bubblies that
remind us that these are at heart
really good wines. Consider this a
recommendation for either one,
and an invitation to compare.
Alcohol by volume: 12.5 percent.
Distributed by Elite Wines: Available in the
District at District Liquors, Dixie Liquor,
Rodman’s. Available in Maryland at Capital
Beer & Wine in Bethesda, Finewine.com in
Gaithersburg, Knowles Station Wine & Co.
and Old Town Market in Kensington, Town &
Country Wine Liquor Etc in Easton. Available
in Virginia at Arrowine and Cheese, the
Italian Store (Westover), Pentagon City Wine
Merchant and Westover Market in Arlington;
the Bottle Stop in Occoquan; the Caboose
Market & Cafe in Ashland; the Cheese Shop
in Williamsburg; Field & Main in Marshall;
Knead Wine and Red Fox Tavern in
Middleburg; Leesburg Gourmet in Leesburg;
Locke Store in Millwood; Oxford Cellars in
Richmond; Wine Cabinet in Reston;
WineStyles in Dumfries.
Cenyth Rosé of Cabernet Franc
2019
(Extraordinary)
Sonoma County, Calif., $30
This beguiling rosé is a
collaboration between winemaker
Hélène Seillan and Julia Jackson,
of Jackson Family Wines. It’s made
entirely from cabernet franc, which
is unusual for Sonoma County,
where pinot noir reigns in rosé.
Look for aromas of jasmine and
roses just opening to release their
scent, followed by flavors of wild
berries and herbs. ABV:
13.5 percent.
Distributed by RNDC/Monument Fine
Wines: Available in the District at Cleveland
Park Wine and Spirits; Harry’s Reserve Fine
Wine & Spirits; Hop, Cask & Barrel;
Pearson’s. Available in Maryland at
Downtown Crown Wine and Beer in
Gaithersburg, Highland Wine & Spirits in
Highland, the Wine Merchant in Lutherville.
The Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Gris
2018
(Extraordinary)
Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Ore.,
$23
Oregon wine pioneer David Lett
first planted pinot gris in the
Willamette Valley in 1970 , and
today his son Jason continues to
produce the standard-bearer for
this grape in the Pacific Northwest.
Pinot gris has lost some cachet
among Oregon winemakers, who
now are focusing on chardonnay
and riesling, but this wine is a good
reminder of the grape’s distinctive
expression. It sings of fall fruit
flavors, such as apple, pear and
Asian pear, with a hint of hazelnut
and almond. Stylistically, it falls
between the crisp Italian pinot
grigio and the hefty pinot gris of
Alsace. Please, Oregon — don’t give
up on pinot gris. ABV: 12.5 percent.
Distributed by Salveto: Available in the
District at Batch 13, Calvert Woodley, Chat’s
Liquors, S&R Liquors. Available in Maryland
at the Wine Merchant in Lutherville.
Available in Virginia at Arrowine and Cheese
in Arlington, Department of Beer and Wine
and Unwined (King Street, Belleview) in
Alexandria, Foods of All Nations in
Charlottesville, J. Emerson Fine Wines &
Cheese in Richmond, Norm’s Beer & Wine
in Vienna, Vino Bistro in Leesburg, Wine
House in Fairfax, the Wine Outlet (Great
Falls, McLean, Vienna), Whole Foods Market
(Alexandria, Ashburn, Ty sons).Boxwood Estate Rosé 2019
(Excellent/Extraordinary)
Middleburg, Va., $22
Here’s a rosé featuring a blend of
traditional bordeaux grapes —
including sauvignon blanc — so it’s
not your archetypal Provence pink,
which tend to be made with Rhone
grapes such as carignan, cinsault
and grenache. It is delicious,
though, with a spicy, brambly note
over the strawberry and melon fruit
flavors. This would be an excellent
wine to ease your way into a
Thanksgiving dinner over an
assortment of appetizers. ABV:
12.5 percent.
Distributed by Lanterna: Available in the
District at Harry’s Reserve Fine Wine &
Spirits, Sherry’s Fine Wine & Spirits.
Available in Virginia at Eden’s Natural
Market in Gainesville, Town Duck in
Warrenton, and at 70 Virginia ABC stores.
Also available at Boxwood winery in
Middleburg and online at
boxwoodwinery.com.Janna de Mare Alghero Torbato
2019
(Excellent)
Sardinia, Italy, $15
What an intriguing wine. Don’t
drink it cold, as you might most
whites. It shines best just cooler
than room temperature, when the
indistinct but comforting aromas
and flavors of a garden in bloom
embrace you. I believe this wine
would be a fine partner to a holiday
meal, but if it is overshadowed by
others, don’t fret. Save it for
yourself to savor afterward. ABV:
13.5 percent.
Imported and distributed by Simon N
Cellars: Available in the District at A. Litteri.
Available in Virginia at Basic Necessities in
Nellysford, Tastings of Charlottesville and
Wine Warehouse in Charlottesville, Wine
Outlet (McLean, Vienna).Availability information is based on
distributor records. Wines might not
be in stock at every listed store and
might be sold at additional stores.
Prices are approximate. Check
Winesearcher.com to verify
availability, or ask a favorite wine
store to order through a distributor.RECOMMENDATIONSFrom left, Thibaut-Janisson Winery, Xtra Brut NV; Cenyth Rosé of
Cabernet Franc 2019; The Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Gris 2018;
Boxwood Estate Rosé 2019; Janna de Mare Alghero Torbato 2019.
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