Barron's - USA (2020-12-07)

(Antfer) #1

New Year, New Outlook


Designer Josie Natori’s trademark optimism was sorely tested this year,


but she’s feeling upbeat for 2021


By JOSEPH V. AMODIO


J


osie Natori may be the reign-


ing queen of elegant lingerie


and work-from-home lounge-


wear, but don’t ask her to


work from home herself.


Forty-three years ago, the Philip-


pines native chucked a budding career


at Merrill Lynch—she was the first


female vice president of investment


banking—to start a fashion label with


her husband, Ken Natori, a former man-


aging director of Shearson Lehman.


Today, the Natori Co. founder veers


more toward dressing up than down,


and working-from-office, which is why


she’s been heading into her Midtown


Manhattan headquarters every day


since June. Working from home may be


part of the landscape at every company


moving forward, and that growing


trend may have kept her business afloat


these past few precarious months.


But it’s not really her thing.


Any woman looking stylish in a


Zoom meeting via her couch can thank


Natori, 73, whose debut line of embroi-


dered nightshirts in 1977 revolutionized


the innerwear category, planting the


earliest seeds of what would become


today’s innerwear-as-outerwear man-


date. Since then, the company has grown


into a lifestyle brand sold at top depart-


ment stores like Nordstrom, Blooming-


dale’s, and Neiman Marcus, and boasting


apparel, footwear, and jewelry. But it’s


the core categories—lingerie, sleepwear—


that have been the strongest this year,


when she’s had to furlough workers and


downsize office space.


Sales are healthier than ever on


Natori.com, developed by her son, Ken


Jr., who is now the label’s president.


This can’t make up for ailing brick-and-


mortar retailers, key to a brand like


Natori, which relies on licensing. “But it


helps,” she says.


Penta caught up with Natori to dis-


cuss the retail outlook, philanthropy,


and why you won’t catch her singing a


rap song.


Penta: Coronavirus or not, word is


you’re still go, go, go.


Josie Natori: I’m one of the crazy


ones. You know how they say older


people are susceptible to this thing? I


think it’s the younger people who are


more paranoid. [She chuckles.]


Sounds like you’re pretty fearless.


Well, I’m maybe a little too cavalier.


I’m told I’m too cavalier. Now, you don’t


want to be stupid or careless. We do


masks, the proper things. But I’m not


going to paralyze myself.


You’ve been called an eternal


optimist.


I am. What are you going to do?


Moan? Stomp your feet?


How useful is optimism for


entrepreneurs?


My father was a self-made man.


He taught me that when you’re on top,


life will go down, and when you’re


down, life will go up. If you can’t have


that positive spirit, then forget it. Fold


up and go, right? Entrepreneurs have


to be tenacious.


How are you feeling about retail


in 2021?


Back in March was maybe the first


time I can say, even though I’m an opti-


mist, I was kind of panicked inside.


We had to make hard decisions about


layoffs. Furloughs. Cutting overhead.


We’d signed for a lease but renegotiated,


and cut the square footage. And today,


I have to say, we’re definitely in a better


place than we thought we would be. In


2021, we’ll increase the penetration of


direct-to-consumer business. This has


forced us—it forced me, in particular—to


focus on the things that were working,


and take a pause on those that were not.


Things that are working—does that


still include philanthropy?


That’s what I love most. I’m on the


board of Orchestra of St. Luke’s,


the Asian Cultural Council, Statue of


Liberty–Ellis Island Foundation, and


on our website we support a number of


organizations helping women and chil-


dren. That’s something I admire about


this country—Americans have a real


sense of philanthropy. It’s impressive.


Many people accept that this is a part


of life. Obviously, it’s nice if you can be


Bill Gates, right? [She chuckles.] But


you know what? It doesn’t matter how


much you give—every little bit counts.


Especially this year, which has


amplified need in an uncanny way.


Oh! It’s really testing the creativity of


a lot of people. Like with entertainers,


finding new ways to perform.


You’re a musician. Have you been


playing? Does it help clear the mind?


Yes. I still have a coach and I prac-


tice singing and piano once a week. I


play concertos. Chopin, Rachmaninoff,


Grieg. During the [start of the] pan-


demic, on Instagram, I did some live


concerts. About seven of them. It was


fun. That was mostly popular music.


I’m from the old school—don’t ask me


to sing or play anything rap. But I’ll


play Broadway, anything from the ’40s,


’50s, ’60s. My real love is music. But I


don’t have the temperament to have


played professionally.


These days, big business seems as


unpredictable as show business.


We don’t know what’s coming. I’m


eager to see what the new normal will


be. It will emerge. New ideas, new con-


cepts will come. That’s how it happens.


That’s what makes me excited about


being in business. You have to keep


evolving. Otherwise, it’s too boring.


Evolving? Well, you certainly seem


game for that.


Ohhh, I am. [She laughs.] I am


always game.


“ We don’t


know what’s


coming.


I’m eager to


see what the


new normal


will be. It will


emerge.”


Courtesy of Natori Co. Josie Natori


December 2020 | InspiredByPenta.com | 21

Free download pdf