ou could say that acids are the Russell
Brand of skincare. Hot, with a contingent
of diehard fans, but undeniably complex
when you look beyond the surface. When
used correctly, they can impart radiance
and banish lines like no one’s business, but
the term ‘acid’ can be a scary one, eliciting
thoughts of biohazard warnings and, even
17 years after the fact, Samantha Jones’
carpaccio look post-chemical peel – despite
current products posing no such risks.
‘Acids are incredible ingredients that are
extremely effective, and their effects can
be seen very quickly on the skin,’ says Dan
Isaacs, head of research and development
at skincare brand Medik8. ‘You’ll see
substantial changes in the skin’s texture in
as little as a week, with results improving
over time.’ From exfoliating AHAs, BHAs and
PHAs to moisturising acids (hello, hyaluronic)
and treatment acids that specifically target
skin concerns, such as sun damage (think
L-ascorbic acid, aka vitamin C), the dynasty
is a prodigious one. Best, then, to swot up
with our non-painful guide to facial acids- the good, the great and the trendy.
EXFOLIATING ACIDS
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are the holy
grail for exfoliation, and there are four that
you need to know about. While each of
them works in the same way to exfoliate the
skin, they all have individual superpowers.
Which AHA will work best for you depends
on your skin concerns and skin type.
‘AHAs are hydrophilic, “hydro” meaning
water, and “philic” meaning loving,’ explains
Victoria Hiscock, product specialist at
AlumierMD. ‘It means that they interact
with water molecules in the upper layers
of the skin, which triggers a keratolytic
(exfoliating) effect.’ The interaction between
water and AHA dissolves the glue-like bonds
that hold dead cells to the surface of your
skin. Picture your skin as a brick wall. By
loosening the cement in between the bricks
(cells), it allows them to fall away more
easily, revealing healthier and newer skin
underneath. The new cells are able to reflect
light (rather than absorb it like glow-robbing
dead cells), giving you a radiant complexion.
So, which AHA will work best for you?Glycolic acid
Best for: Wrinkles
First up is the AHA equivalent of Zayn
Malik: popular, talented and, let’s be honest,
a little irritating. It has the smallest
molecules of all the AHAs, so penetrates the
deepest and quickest. ‘Studies show that
it helps to initiate collagen synthesis and88 | JULY 2019 Photography | NAME HAME
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