Salicylic acid
Best for: Oily skin and acne
It’s not just AHAs that will exfoliate your
skin – salicylic is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA),
and it’s acne’s kryptonite. Unlike AHAs,
it’s oil-soluble, meaning it can cut through
excess oil on the skin’s surface. ‘This doesn’t
necessarily mean it reduces oily skin better
than AHAs or PHAs (which we’ll get to), but
it’s the only acid able to infiltrate the pore
lining, so it can then flush out dirt, dead
cells and trapped sebum,’ explains Begoun.
This quickly restores oil flow out of the
pore, so it’s less likely to get clogged with the
debris that leads to blackheads, whiteheads
and acne. Strengths of 0.5% to 2% are
usually gentle enough for use at home.Polyhydroxy acids
Best for: Sensitive skin
Just as you’ve started to get a handle on
understanding AHAs and BHAs, enter
polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), which are being
billed as new, but that’s not strictly true. The
scientists who discovered them patented
them in the 90s before marketing their own
skincare ranges. This meant that other
brands didn’t bother including PHAs as they
were too expensive. Now the patents have
expired, sparking a surge of products full
of them, such as Glossier Solution Face
Exfoliating Skin Perfector, £19.
PHAs’ large particle size means they take
longer to penetrate the skin compared with
AHAs, and they only work on the very top
layer of the skin, without disturbing the
delicate layers beneath. While they may
not have the same deep-down exfoliating
skills as AHAs, they boast other benefits.
Gluconolactone is the most powerful PHA- it’s also an antioxidant and a brilliant
multitasker. Its properties protect skin from
pollution and UV damage and, unlike AHAs,
which can weaken the skin barrier, it actually
helps to strengthen it, so skin is less likely to
become inflamed by external and internal
aggressors. A powerful humectant, it also
ensures the skin stays well hydrated and
impedes elastase, an enzyme that causes
skin sagging. Skills, right? And wait, there’s
more. The other PHA, lactobionic acid,
promotes skin firmness by stopping the
degradation of collagen. And we’re still not
done. Iron in the blood can be deposited in
the cutaneous layer of skin, speeding up the
ageing process. PHAs bond with the iron
in your skin, helping to banish this causal
factor of ageing. But the biggest pull of
PHAs is that they don’t increase
photosensitivity, so your skin won’t become
more vulnerable to sun damage, and they
can be used on every skin type. PHAs
don’t just exfoliate, they’re impressively
reparative, too, which gives them an edge.
MOISTURISING ACID
Hyaluronic acid
Best for: All skin types
Hyaluronic acid occurs
naturally in the body and
hydrates the skin by binding
water to collagen. It’s a magnet
for moisture, drawing it from
the environment to keep cells
plump and healthy. It can retain
over a thousand times its weight
in water within skin cells.
Adding it your skincare arsenal
is paramount because, as you
age, you naturally lose collagen
and hyaluronic acid, so the skin
becomes dehydrated more
easily. Also, extreme weather
and underlying skin conditions
can cause tiny breaks in the
protective skin barrier, allowing
water to escape.TREATMENT ACID
L-ascorbic acid
Best for: Free-radical damage
L-ascorbic acid ( better known
as vitamin C) is a potent
antioxidant that wards off
free-radical damage caused by
environmental factors such as
sun exposure and pollution.
Percentages range from 10%
to 20%, but the stability of the
vitamin C within a formula is
much more important than the
percentage. If vitamin C had
a star sign, it would be Gemini,
because it’s utterly two-sided.
On one hand, L-ascorbic acid is
the strongest form of vitamin C
when it comes to dealing with
sun damage and fine lines, yet,
on the other, it’s also the
weakest, because once it comes
into contact with air and heat,
it oxidises, rendering it useless.
Therefore, a stable 5% vitamin
C serum will be more effective
than an unstable 25% serum.
So, how do you look for stable
formulations? The packaging is
key. AlumierMD EverActive
C&E, £149, contains 15%
L-ascorbic acid, stored in a
separate cap above the serum.
You only mix the concentrated
vitamin C powder with the rest
of the serum when you want to
use it, ensuring its efficacy.
Stable formulations won’t
contain water, either.90 | JULY 2019
The Ordinary Salicylic
Acid 2% Solution, £4.25
Boasting the highest
percentage of salicylic
acid allowed without a
prescription, this serum
is pH-balanced, too.ZitSticka Killa Kit, £27
The pea-size sticker floods
the heart of your spot with
salicylic acid, hyaluronic
acid and niacinamide. In
just two hours, acne-
causing bacteria is killed.Alex Steinherr X Primark
Pollution Solution
Exfoliating Pads, £5
Face the city with these
pollution-fighting pads,
loaded with PHAs, lactic
acid and niacinamide.Allies of Skin Vitamin C
35% Collagen Rebuilding
Serum, £108
This stable vitamin C
formula is totally waterless,
so it has zero chance of
going off before you use it.Acid
reign
New to acids? Hone in on these simple
formulations and find what works best
for you and your skin typeDCL Multi-Action Penta
Peel, £58
These presoaked pads
mean you’ll always apply
the correct amount. Lactic,
mandelic and salicylic
acid banish breakouts.The Inkey List Glycolic
Acid Toner, £6.99
This formula contains 10%
glycolic acid and gnaws
away at old skin cells. Say
goodbye to dullness.Oskia Liquid Mask Lactic
Acid Micro-Peel, £70
This overnight treatment
is loaded with 10% lactic
acid, teamed with plant
extracts that increase
skin cell longevity.Garden Of Wisdom PHA
Plus Serum, £14
Supercharged with the
PHA heavy hitters to treat
hyperpigmentation,
photoageing, inflammation
and uneven skin texture.
Talents that rival products
three times the cost.B
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