Childrens Illustrated Encyclopedia

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Oceans and seas

388


OceanOgraphy
Our knowledge of the oceans comes from
oceanographers, who study the oceans. They
sail in special ships with instruments that take
samples of the water and mud on the seabed,
chart ocean currents, and map the ridges and
trenches in the ocean floor. The scientists also
dive in submersibles and use underwater
robots to see the strange creatures that live in
the depths. Satellites look down from space
and send back information about the oceans.

The continental shelf
ends in a cliff called
the continental slope.

Under The OceanS
a strange landscape lies hidden
beneath the oceans. There are huge
cliffs, great ranges of mountains, and deep
chasms, all far larger than any on land. Much of
the ocean floor is a vast flat plain that lies up to
4 miles (6 km) below the surface. Trenches descend
as deep as 7 miles (11 km), more than the height of
the highest mountain on land. Undersea mountains and
volcanoes rise from the plain, many poking their summits
above the waves to form islands. The seas around the shores
of most continents are not very deep. Most offshore islands
are high land rising from the shallow seabed. coral reefs
and atolls grow up from the seabed in warm seas.

Undersea
mountains rise
from the seabed.

WaveS
The surface of the sea is restless, even
on the calmest day. Waves ceaselessly rise
and fall, eventually reaching the land to lap
or crash on the shore. Waves are caused by winds
blowing over the ocean. The energy from
waves can be used to power generators
and produce electricity. however,
tsunamis, huge waves that can
reach heights of 100 ft (30 m),
are very powerful and
destructive. Sometimes
wrongly referred to as
tidal waves, tsunamis
are in fact caused by
earthquakes and
volcanic eruptions.

hOW WaveS MOve
The water in a wave does not move forward.
It moves in a circle, so the water only goes up and
down as a wave passes. The approaching shore holds
back the base of the wave, making the top of the wave
move faster to break on the shore.

Long, wide ocean
ridges run through
most oceans.

Crest topples over
to break on shore.

Long, deep trenches
lie near the edges
of some oceans.

Many
continents
extend out
into the ocean
and have a wide
undersea continental
shelf which is about
400 ft (130 m) deep.

Water reaches base of
circle in trough of wave.

Water reaches top of
circle in crest of wave.

ShOreS and cOaSTS
high land at the shore ends in cliffs, and low land
slopes gently to form beaches. The waves hurl
stones at the base of cliffs, causing rocks to fall
and form coasts with bays and headlands. Strange
rock formations and caves may result. The waves
batter the rocks and break them up into pebbles
and then into sand. Beaches form at the base of
cliffs, and the sea also sweeps pebbles and sand
along the shore to
form beaches
elsewhere.

Large offshore islands
rise from the ocean floor
or continental shelf.

Some volcanoes rise
from the deep ocean
floor to form islands.

Find out more
continents
deep-sea wildlife
earthquakes
Fishing industry
Indian ocean

Ocean wildlife 389-

Seashore wildlife

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