Bloomberg Businessweek - USA (2020-12-21)

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THEONE BloombergPursuits December 21, 2020


One way to not live like a bread-baking peasant
Photograph by Ted & Chelsea Cavanaugh

Give Us This Day


Our Daily Toast


Making toast
is the simplest
of endeavors.
Perhaps that’s why
manufacturers feel
so compelled to
foist touchscreens
and internet
connectivity onto
their latest toasting
contraptions. The
$340 Dualit 4 Slice
NewGen toaster,
on the other hand,
does one thing
sublimely. Controls
are kept to a pair
of chunky dials,
one for selecting
the number of bread
slices or bagels
you’re toasting, the
other for choosing
timer and defrost
settings. Dualits
are handmade in
England, just as
they’ve been since
the middle of the
20th century. (Liam
built the one we
tested, according
to a sticker on the
bottom.) This model
comes in more than
20 colors, though
the original polished
stainless-steel finish
remains the most
popular choice.


THE CASE
Simple, reliable,
repairable, and built
like a streamlined
tank, the Dualit
NewGen is a solid
piece of industrial
design that will last
for generations.
The 28-millimeter
slots accommodate
bread slices as thick
as an inch; they
can even hold an
entire panini with an

optional “sandwich
cage.” After the
mica-coated heating
elements inside
turn the bread
a golden brown,
your toast doesn’t
automatically pop
up; instead, it stays
warmly nestled
inside until you
gently press the
manual lever on the
bottom to make it
rise. $340; dualit.com

WHAT TO TOAST


  • A proper British
    toaster deserves
    proper British bread,
    like the thick-sliced
    loaf ($13, pictured)
    Parker’s imports to
    the U.S. from the
    family-run Henllan
    Bakery in Wales.
    Complete an order
    with Marmite,
    marmalade, English
    bacon, and other
    essentials.

    • From the land of
      avocado toast comes
      Manresa Bread, a
      gluten-glorifying
      offshoot of David
      Kinch’s restaurant
      in Silicon Valley. A
      $40 sourdough box
      includes whole-
      wheat and levain
      loaves, a cranberry-
      orange-walnut
      bread, and, crucially,
      a sandwich-style
      option.

      • Zingerman’s, an
        Ann Arbor, Mich.,
        institution, offers
        a $14 German-
        style dinkelbrot
        with locally grown
        and milled spelt
        grain—plus rye,
        honey, caraway,
        anise, coriander, and
        mashed potatoes.
        Before baking, it’s
        coated in sunflower
        seeds to add a nutty
        crunch to every bite.





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