2019-05-01_Food_&_Wine_USA

M AY 2019 113

Grilled Snapper in Coconut
Sauce

PHOTO P. 82

ACTIVE 45 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 50 MIN
SERVES 4

A grill basket makes preparing this recipe
easy and stress-free. Traditionally, African
bird’s eye chile, called piri piri in Swahili,
gives this dish extra heat. Find bottled piri
piri sauce and crushed chiles at specialty
grocers or online.

1 (2- to 2^1 / 2 -lb.) whole red snapper,
cleaned and scaled

(^1) / 3 cup fresh lime juice (from 3 limes)
3 Tbsp. minced peeled fresh ginger
4 garlic cloves
1 to 2 red piri piri chiles, Thai chiles, or
similar chiles, seeded and chopped
(about 1 tsp.)
1 green Thai chile, seeded and chopped
(about 1 tsp.)
(^1) / 2 tsp. black pepper
1 cup well-shaken and stirred canned
unsweetened coconut milk (such as
Thai Kitchen Organic)
2 Tbsp. tamarind concentrate (such as
Tamicon)
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 tsp. ground turmeric
1 tsp. chopped fresh cilantro stems
1 Tbsp. coarse sea salt, divided
Canola oil, for grilling basket
Cooked coconut rice, for serving

1. Make 4 (3-inch-long) parallel cuts on
   each side of snapper, cutting down
   almost to the bone. Place fish in a 13- x
   9-inch baking dish; set aside.


2. Combine lime juice, ginger, garlic,
   chiles, and black pepper in a blender. Pro-
   cess until smooth, about 45 seconds.
   Coat fish with chile marinade, rubbing
   into slits and cavity. Cover and chill at
   least 1 hour or up to 2 hours.


3. Meanwhile, preheat grill to medium-
   high (400°F to 450°F). Combine coconut
   milk, tamarind concentrate, tomato
   paste, turmeric, cilantro, and 1 teaspoon
   salt in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil
   over medium-high. Reduce heat to
   medium-low, and simmer, stirring occa-
   sionally, until flavors meld, about 10
   minutes. Reserve^1 / 4 cup tamarind sauce
   for plating.


4. Using paper towels, wipe excess chile
   marinade from fish. Sprinkle fish with
   remaining 2 teaspoons salt, rubbing into
   slits and cavity. Place fish in a metal grill-
   ing basket coated with oil. Place grilling
   basket on grill grate, and grill, covered,

basting fish occasionally with remaining

tamarind sauce (about^2 / 3 cup), until flesh

flakes with a fork, 18 to 24 minutes, flip-

ping halfway through grill time. Carefully

remove fish from grilling basket, and

transfer to a platter. Pour reserved^1 / 4 cup

tamarind sauce over fish, and serve with

coconut rice. —SHANE MITCHELL, AUTHOR,

FA R A FIEL D

WINE Lime-inflected Australian Riesling:

2017 Jim Barry Watervale

Grilled Tuna with Chile-Lime

Mango Salad

PHOTO P. 68

ACTIVE 1 HR 10 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 20 MIN

SERVES 4

Coconut husks (and charcoal made from

those husks) burn hot and clean, without

imparting lots of smoky flavor into food.

They are great for grilling fresh, meaty

fish like tuna, which is quickly seared and

only cooked to rare, and the charcoal is

the fuel of choice in Fiji. Find coconut

charcoal (such as Kratos) at hardware

stores or online, or substitute hardwood

lump charcoal.

1 medium shallot, unpeeled

1 medium-size dried red chile

(such as Tianjin), seeds removed,

if desired

1 Tbsp. finely chopped lemongrass

(^11) / (^2) Tbsp. superfine sugar
(^1) / 4 cup fresh lime juice (from 2 limes)
11 / 2 Tbsp. fish sauce
1 (8-oz.) sushi-grade tuna steak (about
11 / 2 inch thick)
1 tsp. canola oil, plus more for grill
(^1) / 2 tsp. fine sea salt
1 large green mango (about 1 lb.),
peeled and cut into 2^1 / 2 - x^1 / 4 -inch
matchsticks
(^1) / 2 cup packed fresh rau ram
(Vietnamese coriander) or cilantro
leaves
4 lime leaves, thinly sliced, or^1 /^2 tsp.
lime zest
1 medium-size red Fresno chile, thinly
sliced (about 2 Tbsp.)

1. Open bottom vent of a charcoal grill
   completely. Light charcoal chimney
   starter filled with coconut charcoal bri-
   quettes. When briquettes are covered
   with gray ash, pour them onto bottom
   grate of grill. Adjust vents as needed to
   maintain an internal temperature of
   300°F. Place shallot and dried red chile
   on unoiled grates. Grill, covered, turning
   occasionally, until chile is bright red and
   crisp, 6 to 8 minutes; remove from grill.

Continue grilling shallot until very soft,

about 20 minutes more. Remove from

grill; let cool 10 minutes. Peel shallot; dis-

card skins. Adjust grill vents to increase

temperature to 475°F. Remove top grate,

and coat with oil; place on grill.

2. Mash chopped lemongrass with a mor-
   tar and pestle until finely ground. Add
   sugar and grilled chile; mash until well
   combined. Add peeled shallot; mash until
   mixture forms a mostly smooth paste.
   Transfer mixture to a small bowl; stir in
   lime juice and fish sauce. Set aside.


3. Rub tuna with oil; sprinkle with salt.
   Place on oiled grates. Grill at 475°F,
   uncovered, until tuna is cooked to a depth
   of^1 / 4 inch but middle is still red, about 3
   minutes per side. Transfer to a cutting
   board; cut into^1 / 4 -inch-thick slices.


4. Place mango, rau ram leaves, lime
   leaves, and Fresno chile slices in a large
   bowl. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons lemon-
   grass dressing, and toss to coat. Divide
   salad among 4 plates; top evenly with
   tuna slices. Drizzle about 2 teaspoons
   lemongrass dressing over each serving of
   tuna; reserve remaining dressing for
   another use. —LOUIS TIKARAM, E.P. & L.P.,
   LOS AN G ELES
   WINE Light-bodied Provençal rosé: 2018
   Château Minuty M

Seaside

Feasts

Moqueca (Brazilian Seafood

Stew)

PHOTO P. 86

ACTIVE 1 HR; TOTAL 2 HR; SERVES 4

This version of the Brazilian classic, which

is traditionally slow-simmered in clay pots,

comes together in a Dutch oven and

packs maximum flavor with minimal effort.

Look for dedo de moça chiles and dendê

oil in Latin grocery stores or online.

SHRIMP STOCK

1 lb. unpeeled head-on, tail-on raw

large shrimp

4 cups water

1 small yellow onion, cut into 1-inch

wedges

1 cup roughly chopped carrot (from 1

large carrot)

(^1) / 2 cup (4 oz.) dry white wine
(^1) / 4 cup roughly chopped celery
4 cilantro sprigs
2 thyme sprigs