2019-05-01_Food_&_Wine_USA

(Nancy Kaufman) #1

116 M AY 2019


Pickled Carrots and Daikon
PHOTO P. 80
ACTIVE 10 MIN; TOTAL 40 MIN
MAKES 2 CUPS

Use any leftover pickles sprinkled over a
salad or stir-fry.

1 cup matchstick-cut carrots
1 small daikon, cut into thin strips
(about 1 cup)

(^1) / (^4) cup granulated sugar
1 cup tap water
(^1) / (^4) cup white vinegar
(^1) / 4 cup rice vinegar
11 / 2 tsp. kosher salt
Place carrots and daikon in a small air-
tight container. Combine sugar, 1 cup
water, white vinegar, rice vinegar, and
salt in a small saucepan. Bring to a sim-
mer over medium. Simmer, stirring often,
until sugar dissolves, about 1 minute.
Pour over carrot mixture. Let cool to
room temperature; cover and refrigerate
until ready to use.
Smoky Fideuà with Shellfish
and Garlic Aioli
PHOTO P. 71
ACTIVE 1 HR 20 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR
SERVES 6
A well-seasoned paella pan is your best
bet for this recipe. Be sure to cook all of
the moisture out of the vegetables before
adding the seafood stock to ensure the
crispiest noodles. For a version of this
recipe adapted for cooking in a skillet, visit
foodandwine.com/skillet-fideua.
1 lb. tomatoes (about 3 medium
tomatoes)
1 small (6-oz.) yellow onion
2 Tbsp. safflower oil
(^1) / 2 lb. peeled and deveined raw large
shrimp
6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
18 oz. uncooked medium fideo pasta
(such as El Mexicano Fideo
Mediano)
1 head garlic, minced (about^1 /^2 cup)
(^1) / 2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 tsp. sweet mild pimentón
31 / 2 cups Seafood Stock (recipe follows)
or seafood paella stock (such as
Aneto)
12 clams, scrubbed
12 mussels, scrubbed and debearded
Garlic Aioli (recipe follows)
Lemon wedges, for serving



  1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Cut tomatoes in
    half, and grate, flesh sides down, on large
    holes of a box grater until only skin
    remains. Discard skins; set tomato pulp
    aside. Grate onion on large holes of box
    grater; finely mince any remaining large
    pieces. (You should have about 1 cup
    onion.) Set aside.

  2. Heat a 16-inch paella pan over
    medium-high; add safflower oil. When oil
    is hot, add shrimp. Cook shrimp until
    seared on both sides, about 1 minute per
    side. Transfer shrimp to a plate. Add 3
    tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil; stir in
    pasta. Cook, stirring often, until pasta is
    toasted and darkened, 5 to 7 minutes.
    Transfer to a plate. Add 2 tablespoons
    olive oil to pan, and stir in grated onion.
    Cook, stirring often, until golden brown,
    about 7 minutes. Add garlic, salt, and
    remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Cook,
    stirring often, until onion and garlic are
    deep brown, about 4 minutes. Stir in
    tomato pulp, scraping up any brown bits
    on bottom of pan. Cook until liquid evap-
    orates and tomato pulp is deeply
    browned, about 12 minutes. Stir in
    pimentón; cook, stirring constantly, just
    until aromatic, about 30 seconds. Stir in 1
    cup seafood stock, scraping up any
    browned bits from bottom of pan. Add
    remaining 2^1 / 2 cups stock.

  3. Increase heat to high, and bring to a
    boil. Reduce heat to medium, and simmer
    10 minutes. Add salt to taste. Return
    pasta to pan, and stir to distribute evenly.
    Transfer pan to preheated oven.

  4. Bake fideuà 5 minutes; remove from
    oven, and arrange clams and mussels in a
    single layer on top. Return to oven, and
    bake until a crust has formed around
    edges of pan and top is lightly toasted,
    about 15 minutes.

  5. Remove from oven, and discard any
    unopened clams and mussels. Arrange
    shrimp over top, cover with aluminum foil,
    and let stand 5 minutes. Serve with aioli
    and lemon wedges. —KATIE BUTTON,
    CÚRATE, ASHEVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA
    WINE Crisp, grapefruit-y Albariño: 2017
    Pazo de Barrantes


Seafood Stock
ACTIVE 55 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 5 MIN
MAKES 4^1 / 4 CUPS

The flavor impact of homemade stock is
always worth the extra effort. Save shrimp
shells in the freezer until you have enough
to make a batch.

2 small tomatoes, coarsely chopped
(about 1^1 /^4 cups)

1 small green bell pepper, coarsely
chopped (about 1^1 / 4 cups)
1 large carrot, coarsely chopped (about

(^3) / 4 cup)
1 cup chopped fennel (from 1 bulb)
1 Tbsp. safflower oil
4 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
12 oz. raw shrimp shells (about 8 cups)
5 black peppercorns
1 fresh or dried bay leaf
5 flat-leaf parsley sprigs
7 cups water



  1. Stir together tomatoes, bell pepper,
    carrot, fennel, oil, and garlic in a large
    saucepan. Heat over medium-high until
    mixture starts to sizzle, about 2 minutes.
    Reduce heat to medium, and cook, stir-
    ring occasionally, until tomatoes break
    down and stick to bottom of pan, 20 to 25
    minutes. Add shrimp shells; increase
    heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring
    often, until shells are orange in spots,
    about 2 minutes.

  2. Add peppercorns, bay leaf, parsley,
    and 7 cups water. (Water should just
    cover shrimp shells.) Bring to a boil over
    high. Reduce heat to low, and simmer
    until broth has a shrimpy aroma, about 1
    hour. Skim off any foam. Remove from
    heat, and cool 10 minutes. Pour through a
    fine wire-mesh strainer into a bowl; dis-
    card solids. Use immediately, or store in
    an airtight container in refrigerator up to
    2 days or in freezer up to 3 months.


Garlic Aioli
TOTAL 5 MIN; MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

A dollop of this homemade aioli adds a
rich creaminess to finish the toasty fideuà.

1 large pasteurized egg
2 tsp. finely chopped garlic (from 2
medium garlic cloves)

(^1) / 2 tsp. kosher salt
(^1) / 2 cup safflower oil
(^1) / 2 cup mild extra-virgin olive oil
3 Tbsp. water
Pulse egg, garlic, and salt in a food pro-
cessor until combined, about 2 times.
With processor running, pour safflower
oil, olive oil, and 3 tablespoons water
through food chute, and process until
thick and creamy, about 1 minute. Store
in refrigerator up to 3 days.

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