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When my wife, Hillary,
was six months pregnant
with our first child, we
decided to travel as a last
hurrah before we became
parents. I like to travel to
eat, and we wanted to
make sure she could put
her feet up and sit in the
sun. Croatia would offer
the perfect mix. We flew
into Dubrovnik then drove
up the Dalmatian Coast.
Everything was so stupidly
beautiful; there was one
incredible view after
another. The water was
crystal clear.
We had our first meal
at Gverovic-Orsan, which
means “Gverovic’s
boathouse.” It’s this little
family-owned place on
the side of the road, right
on the Adriatic Sea, that’s
been there for over 50
years. And—oh my God!—
the seafood was so, so
fresh, with people pulling
fish out of the water then
cooking it.We started with a few
small red scorpion fish,
followed by a branzino
that must have been three
pounds. It went onto a
simple grill over very hot
coals that crisped the
living hell out of it, so it got
really crunchy. It was salty,
served with lemon juice
and tons of olive oil. It was
the best fish I’ve had in
my life. There was a grilled
octopus salad; a mixed
seafood grill of tiny, tender
calamari the size of my
thumb and mussels under
a chimichurri-like sauce
of lemon, garlic, parsley,
and olive oil. Finally, they
brought out this black
risotto with langoustines
and tiny, tender calamari.
It was so delicious. By
Italian standards, you
wouldn’t call it perfect. But
by food standards, it was
absolutely delicious.
—Joe Flamm, executive
chef, Spiaggia, Chicago, as
told to Karen ShimizuA POSTCARD FROM
CROATIA
DALMATIAN DELIGHTS Gverovic-
Orsan has been specializing in fresh
seafood since 1966 (gverovic-orsan.hr).
Stay at Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik for
its direct beach access and its history: It
has hosted the two greatest Elizabeths of
all time—Queen and Taylor. (Rooms from
$170; adriaticluxuryhotels.com)Langoustine and
Squid Ink Risotto
P. 114Grilled Tuna
with Chile-Lime
Mango Salad
P. 113