2019-05-01_Food_&_Wine_USA

(Nancy Kaufman) #1

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Fly
There are no nonstop
flights to Vietnam from
North America, but
nearly every airline has
connections to Ho Chi
Minh City or Da Nang
through Asian hubs such
as Hong Kong, Tokyo,
Beijing, Taipei, and Seoul.
Tourist visas are required
for U.S. citizens.

Stay
In addition to its capti-
vating location on Ha My
Beach and its one- to
five-bedroom villas
inspired by traditional
Vietnamese garden
homes, Four Seasons
The Nam Hai in Hoi An,
south of Da Nang, offers
a range of culinary
experiences, including
immersive trips to
nearby fishing villages
and cooking courses.
(Doubles from $725;
fourseasons.com/hoian)

Eat
Across the street from
the beach, Hai San Ba
Cuong (Nga 3 Hoang
Sa) serves Vietnamese
seafood classics, like
grilled shrimp with salt
and chiles, pen shell with
scallions and peanuts,
and a zillion types of
crab. In the city, Oc Ha
(294 Ong Ich Khiem)
serves snails right at
tables set out on the
sidewalk—the snails
cooked in coconut milk
and the shredded young-
jackfruit salad are musts.
For a more refined
experience, at Nen
Restaurant (restaurant
nen.com), chef Summer
Le prepares ambitious
tasting menus featuring
dishes such as tamarind
soft-shell crab,
dry-aged chicken with
kumquat sauce, and
steamed squid with
ginger sauce and mango
mousse.

Swim
Backed by a ribbon of
evergreen trees, the pale,
powdery sands of
My Khe Beach were a
favorite among U.S.
soldiers, who called it
China Beach, during the
Vietnam War. A couple
miles east of Da Nang’s
city center, the shoreline
runs for about six miles
along the South China
Sea and holds a colorful
collection of seafood
restaurants and vendors.
South of My Khe,
Non Nuoc Beach
stretches for another
three tranquil miles at
the foot of the pictur-
esque and historic
Marble Mountains. On
Da Nang Bay, north of
the city, Nam O is a
humble beach with a
culinary brag: vendors
serving goi ca, marinated
and spiced raw fish fillets
served in rice-paper rolls
with fish sauce.

Da Nang at a
snail

,


s pace

Crispy Garlic-
Glazed Chicken
Wings
P. 1 0 4

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