2019-07-01_Louisiana_Cookin

(Nancy Kaufman) #1
89 louisianacookin.com

ICE CREAM


DAYDREAM


COOKING WITH
CHEFS TO WATCH


WHENSHEWASNAMEDa CheftoWatchin2013,BronwenWyatt
waspastrychefatLaPetiteGroceryinNewOrleans,whereshestrived
forstraightforward,uncomplicateddessertsthatwerenottoosweet.
Thoughherpastryphilosophyhasevolvedovertheyears,shecarriedthat
visionwithherwhen,earlierthisyear,shejoinedtheteamsatBywater
winebarBacchanalandMarignydarlingElysianBaraspastrychef.
WerecentlycaughtupwithBronweninBacchanal’skitchengardento
getthescoopaboutherpassionforicecreamandusinglocal,seasonal
ingredientsinherdesserts,includingtherecipeforRoastedStrawberry
IceCreamSandwichesshesharedwithus.

Q What do you have planned for the pastry programs at Bacchanal
and Elysian Bar?
My plans are right in line with the philosophy that both Chef Joaquin
Rodas (of Bacchanal) and Chef Alex Harrell (of Elysian Bar) have
always maintained: focused, uncomplicated, seasonal, and beautifully
prepared food. My desserts at Bacchanal, like the rest of the menu
there, will also be heavily infl uenced by traditional wine-producing
regions such as Spain, Italy, and France. My desserts at Elysian Bar
will touch more heavily on the culinary traditions of the South. Cane
syrup, buttermilk biscuits, cornmeal, local cane sugar, strawberries,
peaches, fi gs, and muscadines will all come into play.

Has your style of dessert changed at all since you were named a
Chef to Watch in 2013?
I do think it’s changed in some ways. Th e dessert I featured in my
Chefs to Watch article back then was a Butterscotch Pudding, which
is still on the menu at La Petite Grocery, where I was at the time. It’s
always going to be a classic and special dessert to me, but I feel like
more and more I want to do things that are fruit-forward and much
more rooted seasonally, only using fruit that you can get locally when
it’s in season and playing with fl avors that are a little less sweet.

by caitlin watzke | photography by randy p. schmidt

Q

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