PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM DICK DSTYLING BY LAURA CRANDALLT
here’s more than just wild yeast in sourdough—there’s wild
spirit. Unsurprisingly, this particular loaf has been intrinsic
to the American pioneer identity. California gold prospectorscarried their starters in their backpacks, traveling from camp to camp
with their magical “sponge,” as they called it, the base for biscuits,
fl apjacks, and, yes, bread. The fi rst American settlers in the Alaskan
Klondike region knew that sourdough starter was the only leaven
to be had within 1,000 miles. Then came the commercial bakery
boom of the 20th century, and naturally leavened bread faded into
obscurity. Luckily for bakers everywhere, the artisan bread boom—
championed by the likes of Tartine in San Francisco, California—has
led to a modern-day sourdough renaissance.
Distinguished by a dramatic open crumb, chewy golden crust, and
signature tangy fl avor, sourdough is a signifi cant benchmark in the
baker’s journey. It’s a test of the baker’s patience and dedication,
requiring one to nurture and build a starter, a microbe-rich fl our-
and-water mixture that’s been fermented and fed for several weeks.
You should love it like a child or, at the very least, a cherished pet.
Then you need to sacrifi ce a part of this precious thing—only a
tablespoon, don’t worry—to be baked into an air-pocked boule that
has equal parts height, texture, and taste. With our in-depth guide,
we’re demystifying the incredible but easy process. Soon, you’ll be on
your way to becoming a bona fi de sourdough obsessive. Don’t say we
didn’t warn you.BY KYLE GRACE MILLS