Peter and Henri’s Red
Ruby cattle (left) are
pasture-fed on the farm
in Devon (right)fertility of the soil and stop it from going to scrub
[low-fertility soil overgrown with self-sown plants
that’s not suitable for farming].” She points out the
insects feeding on the cowpats, laying eggs and
brea k ing it dow n into t he soil a s fer t iliser a nd t he
clover which delivers nitrogen and saves having to
use chemical fertilisers. Driving down the lane
alongside their farm, lined with the ancient
hedgerows, Henri explains how this was once the
old road to Exeter. Times change.
Their chestnut coloured Red Ruby cows are slow
growing and grass-fed (whereas industrial farming
uses grain feed and separates calves from their
mothers early on). “Cows aren’t designed to digest
cereals,” says Peter. “Cereals create acid, which
destroys gut bacteria. Our calves are fed their mother’s
milk for nine months. What’s the sense in taking the
animals away from their mothers and feeding them
soya beans produced in the Amazon rainforest? These
cows help preserve the natural grassland.”
THE VEGAN DEBATE
Farming livestock might be more sustainable but it
only works if you have people eating the meat – and
while Peter and Henri are conscious of the growing
number of vegetarians and vegans, they don’t see it as a
threat. “I applaud vegans,” says Peter. “They’re making
a stand against industrialised farming. But I’d
welcome them to have an honest debate about what’s
truly sustainable. Increasing consumption of plant-
based products that are grown using inorganic
nitrogen isn’t. Monoculture of soya and almonds is as
bad for the environment as industrialised farming. We
need to think about how best we can feed ourselves
and look after the planet. Veganism is not the answer.
We need to eat meat, but not much, and eat the best
quality that we can have.”PEOPLE WELFARE
As the business has grown, Peter and Henri have kept
up with demand by collaborating with local famers –
they currently have around 25 farms growing for
them. This is a key element of what Peter calls the
bedrock of sustainability. “Family farming is this
incredible resource,” he says. “Around three years ago,
we needed someone to rea r pig s for us a nd we were put
in touch with a family up the road. This dairy farm had
been in the same family since 1890. They’d recently