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»f loating bungalow at Mae Ngat Dam, gaze out at the
terraced wildf lower fields and vegetable gardens at
Mon Cham, or enjoy breathtaking views of the Twin
Chedis (bell-shaped towers) on Thailand’s highest
mountain, Doi Inthanon.
What’s Chiang Mai’s best-kept secret?
Warorot Market is hardly a secret, but there’s a good
chance there won’t be a single tourist in sight, so you’ll
feel as if you’ve discovered it! Open 24 hours a day, it
attracts chefs, artisans, guesthouse owners and locals
buying fresh produce or goods such as f lowers, textiles,
clothing, jewellery, and craft items.
What would surprise a newcomer to your city?
Rats’ nests of electrical lines hanging above city
streets; families riding four deep on a ramshackle 125cc
motorbike; groups of saffron-robed monks riding in the
back of red truck taxis; motorcycle drivers weaving in
and out of traffic, riding on pavements, running red
lights, and driving against traffic while remaining
miraculously unscathed. These are just what you’ll see
on the street, so the list could go on and on!
If you could change one thing, what would it be?
We’d reduce the air pollution. It’s a problem stemming
from slash-and-burn farming techniques, non-existent
vehicle emission regulations, and locals burning their
rubbish. It’s at its worst between February and May,
which coincides with the dry season. The skies are
perpetually yellow and the air smells like a bonfire.
Where would you recommend staying?
Within the Old City because, thanks to the moat, it’s
nearly impossible to get lost. Within its borders, there
are countless hotels and guesthouses, tour agencies,
cafés, smoothie stands, noodle stalls and Thai massage
shops. Plus, there are nearly 50 Buddhist temples, so
it’s the ideal place to go on a DIY ‘temple hopping’ tour.
What’s your favourite building?
The Silver Temple, or Wat Sri Suphan. Made of silver
alloys and metals (for which it’s named), it’s in stark
contrast to the traditional white and gold temples. It’s
adorned, inside and out, with intricately hammered,
Buddhist motifs. At night, it’s lit up with colourful
lights. Women are not allowed inside the tiny temple
(though this isn’t typical of temples here) but it’s well
worth a visit just for the beautiful exterior.
What keeps you in your city and where else in the
world would you like to live?
The combination of a low cost of living, safety, friendly
locals, year-round warm weather and convenient
access to Western comforts, such as lightning-speed
WiFi, keep us in Chiang Mai. If we were to live
elsewhere, we’d probably live in Bangkok.
1 Pork and tomato
curry, kanom jeen
nahm ngieow.(^2) A Buddha statue
outside a local temple.
(^3) Wat-Pan-Tao,
one of the city’s
older temples,
inside the walls.
(^4) Huay Tung Thao
Lake is a tranquil place
for a well priced lunch.
(^5) Silverbowlsusedfor
Buddhist ceremonies,
gleaming on a stall at
Warorot Market.
(^6) Vendor at the
Saturday night walking
street market,
preparing for the
evening rush
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ESCAPE (^) | MY CITY