Food Network Magazine - (12)December 2020

CARROT MISO

MATZO BALL SOUP

Birdie G’s, Los Angeles

It’s hard to one-up a bowl of

golden matzo ball soup, but

this restaurant figured it out by

adding a swirl of carrot miso

paste as a finishing touch.

VEGAN LAKS

Sam & Gertie’s, Chicago

At this vegan deli,

the chef poaches and

cures fresh tomatoes,

creating a convincing

plant-based replica of

smoked salmon.

SHPRINGEN KATZ!

Perly’s, Richmond

Here, whitefish salad

is reimagined with a

Chesapeake Bay twist: It’s

formed into a cake, griddled

and topped with anchovies

and tartar sauce.

THE NEW CLASSICS

OLD FAVORITE OLD FAVORITE OLD FAVORITE

PASTRAMI POUTINE

The General Muir, Atlanta

At this chic spot, pastrami

finds its way into a

Quebecois classic of

french fries smothered

with gravy and dotted

with cheese curds.

PASTRAMI ON RYE MATZO BALL SOUP LOX WHITEFISH SALAD

OLD FAVORITE

 I

t’s a little after noon and a line

of people waiting for takeout

orders stretches in front of

Mile End Delicatessen in Brooklyn.

The popular deli had to close

its dining room because of

coronavirus restrictions, but that

hasn’t stopped the fans from coming.

First in line is a gray-haired man

thumbing through a newspaper while

he waits for his lunch of corned beef

on pumpernickel. Six feet behind

him, bearded twentysomethings

wait to pick up seltzers and tuna

sandwiches spiked with harissa.

In many ways, Mile End is as

classic as a Jewish delicatessen

could be—it has the quintessential

matzo ball soup and a serious local

following. But it’s also a whole new

breed, with a stylish exterior of black

painted bricks, a window lined with

colorful jarred pickles and a menu

full of Middle Eastern influences, like

za’atar-rubbed grilled chicken and

marinated eggplant and hummus

pita. This modernized Jewish deli is

a growing trend: In the past year—

during a pandemic, no less—more

than a dozen new spots have been

announced across the country.

Like Mile End, these 2.0 Jewish

delis take an artisanal approach to

their menu, offering innovative spins

on traditional dishes. At Mamaleh’s

Delicatessen in Cambridge, MA,

diners can order a classic Reuben

sandwich—or a version made with

smoked portobellos in place of the

Jewish delis are popping up everywhere—

and completely redefining the genre.

Today’s delis are remixing old favorites, and the results are delicious.

NEW TWIST NEW TWIST NEW TWIST NEW TWIST

BY LEAH KOENIG

OPPOSITE: JEFF HERR PHOTOGRAPHY. PASTRAMI SANDWICH AND MATZO BALL SOUP: GETTY IMAGES. LOX ON BAGEL: SHUTTERSTOCK. WHITEFISH SALAD: JEREMY PAWLOWSKI/ADOBE STOCK. PASTRAMI POUTINE: ANDREW THOMAS LEE. CARROT MISO MATZO BALL SOUP: JIM SULLIVAN. VEGAN LAKS: KAT COLE. SHPRINGEN KATZI: FRED + ELLIOTT.

DECEMBER 2020 ●FOOD NETWORK MAGAZINE 173