Delicious UK - (01)January 2020

NEXT

MONTH

Delia’sbangers

braisedin

cider– pure

comfort food

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 55

food memories.

PORTRAIT:

TREVOR

LEIGHTON.

FOOD

PHOTOGRAPH:

TOBY

SCOTT.

FOOD

STYLING:

JEN

BEDLOE.

STYLING:

VICTORIA ELDRIDGE

*delicious.

TESTED

THIS

RECIPE

AND

MEASURED

THE WATER

POURED

OVER

THE

MEAT

AS

100ML

Noretrospectivefrommewouldbecompletewithoutsteakand

kidneypuddingbecauseI amemotionallyattachedtoit.Firstly

becauseofitssheerEnglishness.InLondon’seastend,wherethereis

a traditionofgoodeating,goodbutchersandgoodmeat,cockneyslang

affectionatelyreferredtoitasKateandSidney.Acrossthesocialdivide

upwest,withinthediningroomsofexclusivegentlemen’sclubs,the

puddingwouldberegallyservedona silverplatterwitha starched

linennapkinwrappedaroundit.Aknifewouldthenbeinsertedand

slicesofthesoftpuddingcrustwereservedwiththeluscioussteaming

contentsspoonedover.Onething’sforsure therearenotmany

contemporaryeatingexperiencesquitelike it; the whole ritual

ofmakingandeatingitisbothuniqueandimmenselypleasurable.

Itmightbeimaginedthatit’sdifficulttomake.Notso.I wouldsayittakesabout 40 minutes

toprepareandassemble,thenitsteamsawayforfivehoursneedinglittlemorethan

a topupofboilingwater.Some people (my husband) like extra gravy, which can be made

with the meat trimmings.

Steakand kidney pudding

SERVES 6

FORTHESUETCRUSTPASTRY

• 350gself-raisingflour


• 175gshreddedbeefsuet


• Saltandfreshlymilled
  blackpepper


• Cold water to mix

FORTHEFILLING

• 560gchucksteak


• 225goxkidneyafter trimming,
  sobuy275g


• 2 leveltbsp well-seasoned
  flour


• 1 mediumonion, sliced


• Coldwater*


• 1 tspWorcestershiresauce


• Saltandfreshlymilled
  black pepper

EQUIPMENT

• Youwillalsoneeda well-buttered
  1.5-litrecapacitypudding basin
  and a steamer

METHOD

Tomakethepastry,firstsiftthe

flourandsaltintoa largemixing

bowl.Addsomefreshlymilledblack

pepper,thenaddthesuetandmix

it intotheflourusingthebladeof

a knife.Whenit’sevenlyblended,

adda fewdropsofcoldwaterand

starttomixwiththeknife,using

curving movements and turning the

mixturearound.Theaimistobring

ittogetherasa dough,sokeep

addingdropsofwateruntilit begins

to get really claggy and sticky.

Nowabandontheknife,goinwith

yourhandsandbringit alltogether

untilyouhavea nicesmoothelastic

doughwhichleavesthebowlclean.

It’sworthnotingthatsuetpastry

alwaysneedsmorewaterthan

othertypes,soif it’sstilla bitdry

goonaddinga fewdropsata time.

Afterthat,takea quarterofthe

doughforthelid,thenrolltherest

outfairlythickly.Whatyouneedis

a roundapproximately32.5cmin

diameter.Nowlinethebowlwiththe

pastry, pressing it well all around.

Nextchopthesteakandkidney

intofairlysmallcubes,tossthem

inseasonedflour,thenaddthem

tothepastry-linedbasinwiththe

slicesofonion.Addenoughcold

water*toreachalmostthetop

ofthemeatandsprinklein

a fewdropsofWorcestershire

sauceandanotherseasoning

of salt and pepper.

Rolloutthepastrylid,dampen

itsedgesandputit inposition

onthepudding.Sealwelland

coverwitha doublesheetoffoil,

pleatedinthecentretoallow

room for expansion while cooking.

Nowsecureit withstring,making

a littlehandlesothatyoucanliftit

outofthehotsteamer.Thenplace

it ina steameroverboilingwater.

Steamfor5 hours,toppingupthe

boilingwaterhalfwaythrough.

Youcaneitherservethepudding

byspooningportionsstraightout

ofthebowl,orslidea paletteknife

roundtheedgeandturnthewhole

thingoutontoa servingplate

(which is more fun!).

Steakandkidneygravy

• Meattrimmingsfrom
  thesteakandkidney


• 1 onion,halved


• 570mlwater


• 1 tspbeefdripping


• 1 heaped
  dessertspoonflour


• A fewdrops
  Worcestershiresauce


• Saltandfreshly
  milledblackpepper

METHOD

Simplyplacethe

meattrimmingsin

a saucepanwithhalf

theonion,coverwith

thewater,addsome

seasoningandsimmer

forapproximately

1 hour.Thenstrainthe

stockandinthesame

panfrytheremaining

onion,choppedsmall,

inthebeefdripping

untilsoftandblackened

attheedges.Thenstir

intheflour,gradually

addthestocklittleby

littletomakea smooth

gravy,addinga spotof

gravybrowningif it’s

needed.Tastetocheck

theseasoningandadd

a fewdropsof

Worcestershiresauce.

Recipes©DeliaSmith1995,DeliaSmith’s

Winter Collection (BBC Books)