fishermenhavehada goodweek.
Youcanbuysaltfiskur– saltcod
- fromMortans,a wonderfulold
fishermanwitha terrifictwinklein
hiseye.Carryonwalkingaround
thequayandyou’llfindSkeiva
Pakkhús(skeivapakkhus.fo),an
Italian-inspiredrestaurantrunby
Johannes Jensen,whoruns 15
establishmentsontheislands.I
lovedheadchefHenrySamuelsen’s
raviolistuffedwithsaltcodand
servedwitha slickofbrownbutter.
Setbackfromtheharbouris lamb
andseafoodspecialistÁarstova
(aarstova.fo),ina traditionalwooden
building.Expecta warmwelcome
atnearbyBarbaraFishHouse
(barbara.fo), as well as a cracking
winelistanda shortmodernmenu
thatincludesgrilledlangoustines,
crabclawswitha herbdippingsauce,
andbluemusselscaughtinthe
watersnexttothevillageofKaldbak.
Forsweetindulgence,putyour
feetupandenjoya sliceofcakeand
steamingcoffeeatPanameCafé
(facebook.com/paname.fo).Pastry
chefNielsBrogaardÁ Rógvuhas
gaineda reputationforhavingthe
bestdessertsintown– hiscarrot
cakeis seriouslyimpressive.
PRESERVINGTRADITION
Aftercheckingouta numberof
restaurantmenus,it struckmehow
manydriedandpreservedfoods
there were. The climate is harsh
CLOCKWISEFROMLEFT
Turfroof,a traditionalScandinavian
buildingtechnique;Faroesheep
outnumberpeopleontheislands;
Tórshavn’sprettyharbour,
Vesteravag;fishdryinginthesalty
wind;theislands’northerlylocation
means sunshine is rare in winter
FAROE ISLANDS
Mykines
Lake
Leitisvatn
Vágar TÓRSHAVN
Eysturoy
Koltur
Hestur
Sandoy
Skúvoy
StóraDimun
Litla Dimun
Suouroy
Borooy
North
Atlantic
Ocean
N
Norwegian
Sea
Viooy Fugloy
KalsoyKunoy
l
Airportl
l
Lake
Leynavatnl
Lake
Saksunarvatu
l
Gásadalurl
Svinoy
Nólsoy
Streymoy