Delicious UK - (02)February 2020

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 17

food for thought.

ILLUSTRATION:

SAUL

HERRERA/GETTY

IMAGES

CharlesSpence,anexperimental

psychologistatOxfordUniversity,

claimsloudmusicsuppressesthe

abilitytotaste.Yes,professor,thank

you!It couldbetheworld’sbest

meal,butI’dhardlynotice.I know

placesplayloudmusictokeeptrade

brisk,butinmycaseit’ssobriskI’m

inandbackoutthedoorina second.

Afternoisecomeslightor,

preferably,a lackofit.I enjoythe

crepuscular gloom of some modern

restaurants.It detersallbutthemost

pathologicalofInstagrammers,and

there’ssomethingbondingabout

everyonegettingouttheirphonesto

readthemenu,asthoughwe’reall

tryingtoearnourBrowniesbadge.

Ofcourse,themostimportant

elementofanyrestaurantis itsstaff.

Thebesthavea peripheralvisionand

analmostsupernaturalabilityto

senseneed.Doyourequireglasses

topping up? A chat? To be left

alone?Areyouinthemiddleofan

anecdote?A divorce?Theyknow.

Naturally,ina restaurantI want

tobefed,butmorethanthat,I want

toleavehappierthanwhenI arrived.

I wanttohandoverthereinsof

responsibilityformylifefora few

hours.I wanttofeelwelcome,

cosseted,adored(ok,youcandialit

backonthatlastone).Dothatand,

inthewordsofRandyNewman,

you’ve got a friend in me.