Delicious UK - (03)March 2020

GillMeller’ssmokedhaddock

scotcheggswithchiveand

lemonmayo,p

SophieGrigson’s

chickentagine,p

Delia’schocolate

bread& butterpud,p

RESTAURANT

OF

THE

MONTH

Rules

London; rules.co.uk

WHERE This Covent Garden stalwart

lies on the edge of Theatreland.

THE SETTING With just three owners in

its 222-year history, London’s oldest restaurant is

reassuringly impervious to dining fads. A doorman

greets you at the threshold, giving access to Rules’

intimate clubby spaces and congenial atmosphere.

THE DISHES Seasonal game is the draw, such as

roast venison with pear and parsnip purée, though

there are more homely dishes too, for when nothing

but steak and kidney suet pud or rack of lamb will

do. Starters such as smoked eel with beetroot jam

and dandelion make some concession to modernity,

though puddings are steadfastly traditional.

PRICE About £50 for three courses excluding drinks.

VERDICT If you’re seeking respite from gels and

foams, Rules could be the haven you’re craving.

Buy The Good Food Guide 2020 (£17.99) in Waitrose,

at thegoodfoodguide.co.uk and in all good bookshops

In association with The Good Food Guide

Menu of the month

COMFORTING FLAVOURS – SMOKY, SPICY, SWEET

E

S

SAVEOURFISHSTOCKS

TheMarineConservationSociety(MCS)is

urgingshopperstofollowitsGoodFish

Guide, whichratesfishfromredtogreen

accordingtohowsustainablythey’refished.

MCSwantsustoreplaceredratedfish,such

asbluefintunaandwhitebait,withgreen

choicessuchaslandfarmedArcticcharand

coleytoencourageresponsiblefisheries.

Visitmcsuk.org/goodfishguideformore

informationonchoosingsustainableseafood

Didyouknow...

somesheepget

fatterinwinter?

OrkneyLambisa

protectedfoodname

(PDO).TheNorth

Ronaldsaysheepfeed

onseaweedandfatten

upduringwinterand

spring,whenstorms

washupmorekelpon

thebeach,making

foodplentiful.

Eating out is on the up...

But dining out as a

family isn’t always

care-free. UK families

eat out twice as often

compared to 40 years

ago – half eat out

at least once a week,

with parents spending

more than £2,

a year. Yet family

meals in restaurants

come with their own

frustrations – see

the most common

listed right.

Overall, though, 93%

of UK families would

like to eat out more

often than they do.

SOURCE: CATERER.COM

The four things

parents

LIKE LEAST

about eating out...

35% Cost

32% Pressure

for children to behave

22% Waiting

time for food compared

to home

18% Lack of menu

options for children

WORDS: RACHEL WALKER, PHOEBE

STONE, SUSAN LOW.

PHOTOGRAPHS AND ILLUSTRATIONS

: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES