Hasthe BakeOffffeffffectmadeusvaluefancyfondantfripperiesoverthe
solidbakingcredentialsoftried-and-truelemondrizzles,victoriasponges
andsimnelcakes?It’sthesesimplerrecipesratherthanthecrèmesfatales
thatdeservetheirplace onthe cake stand, argues Debora Robertson