I’mnotsurewhatitisaboutrhubarbthatI loveso
much,butovertimeit’sbecomeanabsolutefavourite.
Perhapsit’sthedizzyingsournessormaybeits
versatility.Perhapsit’ssimplytherespiteitoffersthe
seasonalcook,notoncebuttwiceina year.Vividpink
forcedrhubarbisgrownindarkshedsandappears
inthewintrydepthsofJanuary.Itbringsa riotofcolour
tothekitcheninanotherwisecolourlessmonth.Then,
a littlelaterintheyear,outdoorrhubarbbeginstofruit,
whichmightbea contradictioninterms,sincerhubarb
isn’tactuallya fruitatall– it’sa vegetablewetendto
treatlikea fruit.And,aswithmostfruit,welikeit
sweet.Cooksusuallywanttotamethezingand,asa
result,thevibrantstemsaresubjectedtoanonslaught
ofhoneyandsugarateverypass.It’shardtoarguewith
theoutcome,asthecorrectbalanceofsharpandsweet
isanincrediblething,butit’simportantnottolose
rhubarb’struevoiceamongthesyrupypercussion.
Giventheversatilityofthiswonderfulingredient,
I’mshowingoffrhubarb’sgoodsidesintheserecipes,
capitalisingonitsaffinitywithallthingssweetbut
alsoplayingtothepowerofitssour notes... Rhubarb
ketchup, anyone? GILL MELLERABOTTLEOFRED
Rhubarband
beetroot ketchup32 deliciousmagazine.co.uk