INPR AISEOFTHESANDWICH
ByJamesRamsden,modern
butty maker extraordinaire
Whenconsideringthesandwichit’s
customarytogivecredittosomehungry
high-rollingearl,butweallknowthe
storytobefancifulatbest...Weallknow,
inourhearts,inourguts,thatthe
sandwichhasexistedforaslongaswe’ve
beenabletobakebread.Humansare
nothingifnotinnovative.Theideathatit
tookmillenniaforsomerotundidlerto
realisethattheloafcanbeimproved
immeasurablybyaddingsomething
delicioustoitdoesn’treallypassgo.
We’vesurelybeenatiteversincethat
pioneeringEgyptian(I’mguessing
here– theyweresupposedlythe
earliestbakersofleavenedbread)
craftedthefirstsandwich,and
I canthinkoffewthingsI prefer
eating.Thecanvasthatgood– oreven
lacklustre – bread provides for the
hungrypersontopaintonistimeless
andlimitless.There’scontentmentinthe
simplepairingsofcheeseandpickle,ham
andmustard,prawnmayo;there’sglory
intheindulgenceofa truffledcheese
toastie,a goodsteaksandwich,a tuna
melt;thereisa goodseasoningofguiltin
a suitablyextraburger,anoutlandishly
over-filledreuben,themerguezandchips
baguetteat(ahem)myownsandwich
shop,Sons+ Daughters,whichI hope
willreopenagainonedaysoon.
I don’tknowofanycountryorculture
thathasn’tproducedatleastone
sandwichit’sproudtoputitsname
to,fromthekatsusandoofJapanto
thesabichofIsraeltothecubano...
Topicka favouritewouldbelike
havingtopicka favouritechild – if
youhada thousandchildren.
Thegoodnewsistherearenorulesto
makinganexcellentsandwich.Don’t
overthinkit.Trustyourinstincts,trust
your palate and, if in doubt, add crisps.
EASYSWAPS
Can’tgetpaneer?
Tryusinghalloumi
instead,butfirst
sliceanddry-fry
itquicklyuntil
lightlygolden
beforeaddingit
to the sandwich.
Spicedpaneer
naan toasties