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MostpeopleI knowhavedeveloped
a peculiarrelationshipwiththenews,avoidingthe
relentless,anxiety-inducingtalkaboutthepandemic
andhowweshouldbebehaving,yetfeeling
a tuggingdesiretohearnewsofhopeforthefuture.
Forthedelicious.teamourchallengescontinue
tobemanyandvaried,yetthereismuchtocherish:
extendedtimewithimmediatefamily(noteasywhenyou’rejuggling
home-schoolingandwork,mindyou)andbeingabletoescapeoutside
inairthat’sfresherthancentralLondon,whereourofficestandsstill
andsilent,waitingforthehubbubandcookingsmellstoreturn.With
thefervourofa preacher,I’mcheeredbythefactthatsomanypeople
arediscoveringa loveforcooking(newconverts!)andunderstanding
thepoweroffoodtodrawfamiliesandcommunitiestogether– stories
thathavelongbeentheheartandsoulofdelicious.
Therearecertaintiesonwhichyoucanrely:westilltesteveryrecipe
towithinaninchofitslife– onlydifferently,inourhomes,ratherthan
inthebuzzofthetestkitchen(wedoalotoftalking,althoughI can’t
betheonlyonewho’sfedupwithvideocalls?).Andanothercertainty:
thesatayburgeronthecoverisunbelievablygood...I’llbefiringupthe
barbieforthatatleastoncea weekoverthenextmonth– andbeyond.
It’sasimportantasevertogiveshapetotheweek,creatingmoments
ofoccasionwhilerestaurantsremain,forthemostpart,shut.Ravinder
Bhogal’sbrunchrecipes,inspiredbyherrestaurantJikoni(p38),are
onewayofdoingthat(mangodoughnuts!),andOliaHercules’recipes
fromherUkrainianhomeland(p50)aresecondtonone.Youhaveto
trythebunswitha hiddenfillingofslow-roastpork...Sigh.
Andfinally,ifyouwishtosupportqualityprint,we’dloveyoutojoin
thedeliciousfamily(seeri l cheerandclapthe
magazineallthewaytoyou appycooking.
PS
There’s
never
been a better
time to subscribe
to delicious.
See p86 for
a tempting
half price offer
KAREN BARNES, EDITOR
WELCOME TO
JULY
PORTRAIT: TREVOR LEIGHTON. PHOTOGRAPH: GARETH MORGANS