Burntauberginebutter
ontomatotoasts
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
Don’tbefooledbythe
modernrecipetitle–Ifirst
founda delightfullysimple
versionofthisrecipein
UkraniancookOlhaFranko’s
brilliant 1929 book,Practical
Cooking. I wasintriguedby
thewaythat,throughoutthe
book,theUkrainianterms
forauberginesandtomatoes
seemedconfused:thewordfor
aubergineis‘purpletomato’
andfortomato‘redaubergine’!
Ifyouhaven’ttriedaubergine
butterbefore,thiswillbe
a revelation.Itmakesthe
beststarterorsharingdish.
Addsomefreshherbs too, if
you have them.
OLIA’S
TIP
Ifthere’sanyaubergine
butterleftoverit willkeep
chilled for up to a week.
- 1 largeaubergine
- 20gbestqualitybutter,softened
- 6 slicessourdoughbread
- 1 largegarlic clove, peeled and
cutinhalf - 2 ripetomatoes,cutinhalf
- Finelychoppedfreshherbs,such
as dill, basil, coriander (optional)
1 Youneedtoblackenandcookthe
aubergineuntilit collapses,asyou
wouldforbabaganoush.Thebest
resultcomesfromdoingthisover
thesmoulderingcoalsofa
barbecue,butyoucanalsodoit
overanopenflameif youhavea gas
stove:settheauberginedirectly
overa mediumflameandkeep
turningit withyourtongsevery
5 minutes– it shouldtakeabout
10-15minutes.Alternatively,you
canroastit ina 220°C/200°Cfan/
gas7 ovenorundera hot grill for
about 20 minutes.
2 Whentheaubergineischarredon
theoutsideandreallysoftinside,
setasideona plateuntiljustcool
enoughtohandle.Pourtheliquid
thatwillhavecomeoutofthe
aubergineintoa bowl,thenuseyour
fingerstopeelofftheskin– don’t
worryif someofit doesn’tcomeoff,
it willonlyaddtotheflavour.Add
theauberginefleshtothebowl
containingtheliquidandmashwith
a fork.Whileit’sstillwarm,whisk
inthebutterwiththeforkandadd
somesaltandpepper,thentaste– it
shouldbewellseasonedandtaste
ofcomfort,likebabaganoush’s
Ukrainianthirdcousin.
3 Grillyourslicesofbreadina
griddlepan(ortoastthem),thenrub
firstwiththegarlic,followedbythe
tomatoes– asyouwouldforSpanish
pancontomate. Nowspoonsomeof
theauberginebutterontop.Garnish
withsomefinelychoppedsoft
herbs,if youlike,andserve.
PERSERVING156kcals,3.4gfat
(1.9gsaturated),4.8gprotein,
27.2gcarbs(2.8g sugars), 0.5g salt,
3.6g fibre
Dumplingswith
beansandpotato
SERVES4-6(MAKES 30 DUMPLINGS).
HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN
Soft,comfortingvarenyky
dumplingsareknownand
lovedbyeverybodyinUkraine.
I lovethisunusualbutterbean
version.Althoughsimilarin
flavourtoclassicpotato-filled
varenyky,somehowthesefeel
like less of a hassle to make.
OLIA’S
TIPS
Ifyoudon’thaveanycooked
potatoforthefilling,
addfrieddicedmushrooms
instead.Therecipewillworkusing
justleftoverpotatotoo– if the
potato’sfirstlifewasasbuttery
mash,youmightnotevenneedthe
eggyolk.Thisdoughalsoworksfor
sweetvarenyky– tryberriesor
sliversofapricotasa filling,with
a1:1doughtofillingratio.
MAKE
AHEAD
Youcanmakethe
dumplingsa fewhours
aheadtotheendofstep4.
Reheatanyleftoversina fryingpan
andserveasbeloworina broth.
KNOW-
HOW
SaloinUkraineandRussia
(knownaslardoinItaly)
isporkfatthat’sbeen
dry-curedorbrinedwithherbsand
spices.Whenslicedthinlyit canbe
eatenascharcuterieoryoucan
renderit ina pananduseit as
a cooking fat, as in this recipe.
- Finesemolinaorflourfor dusting
- 2 tbspvegetableoil
- 50gsalo,lardoorpancetta, diced
- 1 smallonion,chopped
- 1 tbspbutter,softened
- Crèmefraîche or soured cream to
serve
Meetyournew
favouritething
to have on toast
54 deliciousmagazine.co.uk