Delicious UK – (10)October 2019

deliciousmagazine.co.uk 137

hungry traveller.

HOMEFROMHOME

Thelounges

havethefeel

ofa beautiful

privatehome

you’vebeen

luckyenough

togatecrash;

bedroomsare

stylishand

luxuriousand

mosthave

breathtaking

views

WORDS: LES DUNN

GREAT ESCAPES

WHYIT’SGREATA secludedspotwith

viewsofthePreseliHills;a white-

paintedcountryhousewithcosy

roomsanda décorthatcouldhold

itsowninTheWorldof Interiors;

26 acresofgardenstoexplore;well

regardedfoodinthefine-dining

andmoreinformalrestaurants;and

thegloriousPembrokeshirecoastin

strikingdistance.Whenit comesto

countryhousehotelsinWales,the

Grovehasit goingon– andsome.

THEFOODTheGrovehasbeen

hankeringaftera Michelinstarfor

years.Perhapsthey’llgetit withnew

chefDouglasBalish,whohadjust

begunhistenureonourvisitand

promisesa “lessrefined,more

natural”styleofcooking.It’sserved

intheFerneryrestaurant(with

artfullypressedfernsonthewalls).

I’veheardofdrinkingintheviews

butaswesippedthefizzynettleand

elderamuse-bouchewefeltwewere

drinkingthesurroundinggreenery.

Balishhasmadeit hismissiontonab

someofthebestlocalproducebefore

it’s gobbled up by restaurants in

London,andweenjoyeda spanking

freshseabreamstarterina seaweedy

broth,anda punchilyflavoured

pigeonbreastwithwalnutpuréeand

blackpudding.Lambcookedthree

ways(rump,bellyandneck)was

apparentlya vestigeoftheprevious

chef’srepertoire,butskilfully

cookednonetheless.Monkfishwith

cauliflowerina curriedbrothwas

lightandsubtle,andwefinished

witha prettypuddingofsalted

Frenchshortbreadwithrhubarb

sorbet,honeycombandginger.

BreakfastinthebrightArtisan

Roomsis allà lacartebutit makes

upforthatformalitybybeingdarned

good.Thepineapplepoachedin

staranisewithyogurtwasamazing,

andthesmokedhaddock,laverbread

andparmesanomelettedeserves

immediateinclusioninTheBookof

BestEverWorldRecipes. Detailssuch

asremovingtheleavesfromyour

potofteasoit doesn’tstew(yes!)

madeusloveit evenmore.

THEROOMSThemainhousehas

14 rooms and suites, all with

a periodvibe,art,antiquefurniture

andtheoddfireplace– Seddonhas

a four-posterbedandgreatviews.

Therearealsotwocharacterful

cottagesandsixspaciouscottage

suitesinthegrounds.

WHATTODOINTHEAREAThepretty

markettownofNarberthhastrendy

shopsandplacestoeatsuchas

Ultracomida(ultracomida.co.uk),a

Spanishdeliwhichservesexcellent

foodanddrinkatcommunaltables

inthebackroom.Downonthecoast

arethecuteseasidetownsofTenby

andSaundersfoot,andfurtherafield

arethestunningcliffwalksand

surfingbeachesoftheNational

Trust-ownedStackpoleEstate.

WHAT’SNOTSOGREATSomeofthe

youngerstaffareperhapsnotas

knowledgeableaboutthefoodas

theycouldbe,buttheymakeupfor

thisbybeingfriendlyandhelpful.

COSTDoublesfrom£120B&B.

Dinner£69forthreecourses.

Eight-coursetastingmenu £94.

Afternoontea£29.

thegrove-narberth.co.uk

The Grove – Welsh warmth