Delicious UK – (10)October 2019

14 deliciousmagazine.co.uk

THEWOODSMAN

Stratford-upon-Avon,

Warwickshire

thewoodsmanrestaurant.co.uk

Price:about£40(three-course

dinnerexcludingdrinks)

WHOA collaborationbetweenchef

MikeRobinson(right),co-owner

oftheexcellentHarwoodArms

inFulham,andHotelIndigo,

a boutiquebrandfromthe

IntercontinentalHotelGroup.

THESET TINGAnancienthalf-timbered

building– allflagstones,beams

andpanelling– giveswaytoa light

extensiondominatedbyanopen

kitchenarounda wood-firedoven.

THEDISHESRoastvenisonandbeef

arethestarsofa menuthat

combinesRobinson’sloveof

traditionalcookingmethodswith

impeccablesourcing.Trya pavé

of40-day-agedHerefordbeef,

itssuperbflavourenhancedbya

meatyfaggotanda ‘dirtymash’,

heavywithbutterandtoppedwith

deerbiltongshavings.Sunday

lunchmightfeatureslow-cooked

muntjacshoulderfortwo– and

there’sa rovingcocktailtrolley.

VERDICTWitha settingthisgood,the

Woodsmanisa great choice for a

specialmeal.

RESTAURANTOF

THEMONTH

In association with The Good Food Guide

ThenewGoodFoodGuide 2020 (£17.99)is outnow.Availablein Waitrose stores,

online at thegoodfoodguide.co.uk and in good bookshops

THEMISSION:TOSHOWTHEWORLDTHAT

DAIRYFARMINGCANBEDIFFERENT

Intensivedairyfarmingtypically

involvescalvesbeingseparatedfrom

theirmothersshortlyafterbirth.The

EthicalDairyisanorganicfarmthat

doesthingsdifferently:their‘cowwith

calf’systemallowsthecalvesto

staywiththeirmothersforfivetosix

months.Forthefirsttwomonthsthey’re

together 24 hoursa day,butthenthe

calves act like teenagers, playing with

theirpalsandonlycomingbacktotheir

mothersforfood.

WHATDOESTHEETHICALDAIRYDO?

Thefarmhadbeenmakingcheesefor

100 years,butthatendedinthe1970s

whenmilkproductionbecamethefocus.

Morerecently,theFinlaysrevertedto

cheesemakingandnowmakeseveral

styles,fromsemi-hardtoblue.

WilmaandDavidstartedtriallingthe

cow-with-calfsystemin2012.Milkyields

arelowercomparedtothoseona

conventionaldairyfarm,butthecouple

believecommittingtohigheranimal

welfarecanstillbeprofitable.The

EthicalDairyproducedfivetonnesof

cheeselastyearandstockshavesold

out,butit nowhasnew,largerfacilities,

soproductioncanbeincreased.They’re

also producing a new cheddar.

WHYDOESITMATTER?

“Themostcommonquestionpeople

usedtoaskonourfarmtourswas,

‘Whydoyouseparatethecalvesfrom

theirmothers?’”saysWilma.“I’mnot

froma farmingbackgroundandthat

wasmyquestiontoo.” 2019 isthefirst

yearthattheheifers(youngfemale

cows)bornintothenewsystemare

calvingandproducingmilk.“The

heifershavebeensuperbthisyear– is

it a fluke?”Theherdstendtobecalmer

andinbetterhealth,too.Comparedtoan

averagedairy,thefarmhascutantibiotic

useby 90 percent,reducedenergyuse

bymorethan 50 percentanddoubled

theproductivelivesofitsmilkingherd.

Toordercheeselaterthisautumn,visit

theethicaldairy.co.uk.Thefarmis open

for visits until the end of October.

MAKING A DIFFERENCE Meet the people changing the world through food

THEPIONEER

WilmaFinlay,

co-founder

ofTheEthical

Dairyin

Dumfriesand

Galloway

WORDS: RAMONA ANDREWS, RACHEL WALKER, PHOEBE STONE, SUSAN LOW. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES

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