Is this the
end of food
snobbery?
Saladcream,packet-mixtrifle,a bowlofsteamingcanary-yellow
custardortinnedfruitwithcondensedmilk...Itseemshordesofus
needa fixofthesereassuringlyfamiliarflavoursintimesofuncertainty- and there’s nothing wrong with that, says Debora Robertson