Delicious UK - (10)October 2020

WORDS: PHOEBE STONE

F

orCalumFranklin,thepie(neverusethewordhumble!)

representsa worldofcreativepossibilities.“Makinga super-

tastyfillingcomesfirst,”hesays,“thenwhenyouwrapthatin

pastry,youhavea blankcanvastocreateon.”He’stalkingaboutthe

elaboratepastrypatterns(suchasthoseinthesketcheshere)that

havemadehispiesfamous.Butthatsuccessisn’tjustdowntohim,he

insists:“Igivemyteamfreereintocomeupwithsomethingbeautiful.”

Design-madCalumgrewupinLondon,andthecity’smanyand

variedarchitecturaldetailsprovideampleinspirationforhiscrusty

creations.Staffaresentonexpeditionsforideas,andtheygetthem

fromeverythingfromdoorhandlestostainedglass.Calumreckons

thatgivingthestaffthatindependencepaysoff:“Puttingtheirown

stamponsomethingbringsoutpeople’sprideintheirwork.”

Cultivatingtalentandcreatinga supportiveatmosphereiswhatit’s

allaboutforCalum.“Irespectregimentedkitchensbutoursisdifferent

• wetreateachotherlikefamily.”It’sa close-knitoneatthat(twoof
  theteamattendedCalum’swedding)andhe’sdedicateda sectionin
  hisdebutbook,ThePieRoom(outthismonth),tohischefs.“Noneof
  themknewthatchapterwasinthereuntiltheysawthebook,”hesays.
  Whydidhedoit?“Webuiltthistogether.It’smythankyoutothem.”
  Calumhopeshisbookwilldispelanyfearsaboutmakingpastryand
  popularisetheideaofmakinga pieforsomeone.“Apieisa lovelygift–
  it’shandcraftedandtakesa bitoflovetocreate.”Butthere’sa downside:
  “Nowadays, people get upset if I come to visit and don’t bring a pie!”

ABITABOUTCALUMHe’sthe
executivechefofHolbornDining
Room,a grandBritishbrasserie
intheheartofLondon.Calum
createdThePieRoomatthe
restaurantin 2018 – a kitchenand
pieshopdesignedtoreflectthe
richhistoryofsavourypastryin
Britainacrossthecenturies.He
wasawardedHotelChefofthe
Year 2019 attheprestigiousCatey
Awards,andHolbornDiningRoom
rankedamongthetoprestaurants
intheUKatthehighlycompetitive
NationalRestaurantAwardsin
2019.If youhaven’ttastedoneof
Calum’spies,now’sthetime...

ITTAKESA VILL AGETO

RAISEA PIECalum(inblue)

with his senior team