CLOCKWISE
(from top
left): enjoy
Cornish
hospitality
and the
freshest
seafood at
the St Tudy
Inn; Stein’s
Gift Shop in
Padstow; a
pasty from
Stein’s
Patisserie.DAY 2: PADSTOW TO ST TUDY
Waking to the sound of distant gulls
there’s a chance to ease into the day. Jill
Stein (Rick’s ex-wife) designed the rooms
at this luxurious townhouse with solid
wood furniture, coastal photography and
local homewares. One night is barely
enough; book two and check out nearby
Paul Ainsworth at No6, and Ruby’s
- another Stein venture – a small bar
on the corner of Broad Street.
Dubbed Padstein (for some it’s said as
a slight, but everything that the family
does is of quality), Padstow brings an
obligatory pasty at Stein’s Patisserie.
At Stein’s Gift Shop on Middle Street
you’ll find Porthdune, a range of natural
toiletries created by Jill, ceramics, and
gin crafted by youngest Stein son,
Charlie, in collaboration with Cornish
distiller Tarquin’s.
Cloaked in ivy, Padstow Booksellers is
a calm spot to browse and have a quick
read through middle son Jack Stein’s
debut cookbook, World on a Plate, in
pride of place next to ”the old man’s”
latest releases. The assistant is tight-
lipped on who’s selling best; encourages
me to “perhaps buy both”.
From Padstow, inland to the edges of
Bodmin Moor, a landscape that’s been
inhabited since the Neolithic era, with
cairns and stone circles a legacy of those
early people.
At St Tudy Inn, executive chef and
owner Emily Scott has carved out a
reputation for great
hospitality. A local
contingent sup St Tudy Ale,
brewed by Scott at Padstow
Brewing Company. The daily
menu is underpinned by a
fresh catch, with a wine list
that holds some nice
touches: English sparkling
wine from Camel Valley in
nearby Nanstallon, and from
Bordeaux, Chateau Civrac; made by
Scott’s partner, Mark Hellyar. Comfortable
rooms have blankets by local company
Atlantic and coastal illustrations by another
local, artist Nicole Heidaripour, whose
work is found throughout the Inn and who
has a studio on the Cornish north coast.FOOD TRAIL.