delicious.com.au/travel
For more delicious and inspiring
food trails around the world.FROM LEFT:
TregothnanisBritain’s
only home-grown tea
producer;acreamtea
with the estate’s unique
keaplumjam.BELOW:
traditional Cornish pasty
maker Ann Muller.TREGOTHNAN, ONE OF
ENGLAND’S LARGEST
ESTATES, HAS BEEN
HOME TO THE BOSCAWEN
FA M I LY SI N CE 13 3 4.
DAY5:STIVESTOCOOMBESHEADFARM
AnearlystartputsusontheroadtotheLizard
PeninsulainsearchofAnn’s Pasties.TheSt
Piran’scross–theCornishflag–fliesfromAnn
Muller’s bakery, she wears Cornish tartan, and
talksaboutthepoliticsofthepastyandhow
bigbusinessthreatenstherulesofwhatis
deemed proper. Ann is clear on how they go
aboutitontheLizard:skirtbeefnotmince,
potato,turnip,alittlebitofonionandatop
crimpbyhand.Tastingherhandiwork,yousee
why loyal customers stock up for long drives
north,orbuybymailorder.
Tregothnan,oneofEngland’slargest
estates, lies three miles southeast of Truro.
It’s been home to the Boscawen family
since1334,andiswhere,since2005,
the family has made Britain’s only
home-grown tea, dubbed the
“new Darjeeling”. A private tour
of the estate reveals swathes of
chamomile in bloom and test
beds of teas not yet in production.Housesontheestateareavailableforstays,
orcallintotheWoodyardtosamplea cream
teawithitsuniquekeaplumjam.
Back to the north of the county,
Coombeshead Farmisourlaststop.Down
narrow shadowed lanes, a chalk-on-slate
sign points the way to this guesthouse-
come-restaurant,setupbychefsTom
AdamsandAprilBloomfield.Cricketplays
on the radio from farmhouse to bakery, the
staff, London escapees, enthralled by the
Test.Adams,hailedasoneofBritain’smost
exciting young chefs, tends to the 66 acres,
hispigsinthewoodland,andseemsto
have pulled off his own escape plan.
Coombeshead has the feeling of visiting
countryfriends;aplaceyoudon’twantto
leave,andthinkaboutcomingbackto
often. Much like Cornwall itself.delicious.com.au 147