You won’t findMike Benniebagging the
qualityofcaskwines.Andhe’snotalone
in thinking they’re only going to get better.@mikebennie101 @mikebennie101DRINK THE
GOON-AID
CARUSSIN
BARBERA (3L),$70
This is peak cask
wine, absolutely
attheapexofthe
cool-good gear
matrix. It’s a
crunchy, bright,
vivaciousredproducedfrom
biodynamic grapes that makes
for wildly excellent drinking.YALUMBA
WINESMITHS
RIESLING 2017 (2L),
$15Yalumba’srange
of cask wines is
thebestofthe
’commercial’
offerings, with
’bottle-quality’ wines the motif. This
isarefreshing,zesty,citrusywhite of
crispness and summery feel.THESTUBBORN FEW
SAUVIGNON BLANC
(2L),$15
If you’re after an
easy-drinking white
wine and sauvignon
blanc is in your
wheelhouse, you
candolittlewronghere.It’sclassic
passionfruit and grassiness in the glass- and the best sauv blanc in a box.
DE BORTOLI
PREMIUM
SHIRAZ
CABERNET (4L),
$18De Bortoli
is cask wine
royalty, and
greatvalue.It’s
a hear t y, sloshy, ripe berr y and plummy-
scented-and-flavouredred of warmth
and generosity. A chill can help, too.HARDYS RESERVE
CHARDONNAY
(3L),$17Hardys
makesagood
rangeofcaskwines,
and this chardonnay
deliversatruehit
ofstonefruit,faint
nougat and lightly buttery characters.
It’safuller-flavouredwhite,but comes
with good freshness, too.THE WORLD SHOULDaward a
posthumous knighthood to winemaker
ThomasAngove.He’stheguywho,on
April20,1965,patentedtheworld’sfirst
goon bag: a polyethylene bladder placed
in a corrugated cardboard box.
Caskwineisaseriouslyamazingthing,
responsible for more people getting into
wine, making merry, and experimenting
with wine-clothesline-related ‘sports’ than
anyotheralcoholvesselonearth.While
the humble cask has been tarred with the
‘poor-quality wine’ brush, it has been given
anincorrect rap.
Wine in a box is as good as anything
in a bottle. There, I’ve said it. Every other
year,I‘minvitedtoablindtastingofjust
abouteverycaskwineavailableinAustralia
–about90-odd–andthetakeaway
message has always been, ”that was
nowherenearasbadasIthought”.
Alongside the traditional image of cask
wine,there’sbeenaquietrevolution
ofhipperproducersdabblingwiththe
packaging and a gradual increase in its
presence in high-quality venues. James
Hird, the wine guru behind the drinks
programs at Icebergs Dining Room and
BarandtheDolphinHotelinSydney,isa
convert. “I love the convenience,” he says.
“And the increasingly interesting wines
availableincaskiscompelling.”
Hird pours biodynamic red wine from
Italyfromcaskandhascollaboratedwith
an Italian natural wine producer on the
Dolphin’s house cask wine. “Biodynamic
farmingtickedaboxforme,sodidthe
bright, fresh wine that we were able to
packageup.Theenvironmentally friendly
packagingseals the deal.”
Hird suggests cask wine, once the
domain of mass production, will become
more prevalent as better producers bag
up smaller-batch wines. “Advances in
boxedwinemeansmallervolumescanbe
bagged up, and we’re going to see more
progressivewineproducersheadingdown
the cask path.” Exciting times indeed.delicious.com.au/drinks
To peruse more of Mike’s
favourite drinks.
MIKE BENNIE IS ALSO CO-OWNER OF A SYDNEY-BASED WINE AND LIQUOR RETAIL BUSINESSGONZOVINOROSÉ
2018 (500ML),$21
Packed in a
convenient little
sachet-style ’cask’,
this is a handy drink
for portability and
a quick share.
With suggestions of rose water and
pomegranatejuice, it’s a thirst-
quenching, dry rosé style.DRINKS.
30 delicious.com.au