ALEX ATALADISCOVERSnew tastes wherever he goes. Simply,
peoplewanttofeedhim;outofrespect,butalsoeagernessfor
aglimmerofapproval.InTasmania,fortheGreatChefs Series,
it’s no different; food and flavour follow Atala.
There’san official reception with the Governor and gathered
luminaries, where Atala’s achievements are feted: two Michelin
starswithhisSãoPaulorestaurant,D.O.M.,afixtureinThe
World’s50BestRestaurantslist,andhispioneeringworkwith
theATÁInstitute.JosefChromyWinesheadchefNickRaittisat
thesharpendtoshowcasenorthernTasmania’sbestproduce.
Then there’s a casual Saturday-night dinner down south at
Franklin,whereAnalieseGregory’smenureadslikeamapofthis
island state. Next, fresh sea urchin that our skipper-come-diver
Kate Wilson, from Pennicott Wilderness Journeys, has harvested
justoff Bruny Island.
EachtimeAtalaisengaged,noddinganddiscussingwhathe’s
gotinfrontofhimwithhisyoungsouschef,Ruben,who’salso
travelledfromD.O.M.It’snotAtala’sfirstvisittoAustralia,butit
ishisfirsttoTasmania.Aweekofdiscoveryhasultimatelyturned
himontothepurityofthenaturallandscapeanditsingredients.
OnFlindersIsland,we’vebeenofftheplaneforlessthan
30minuteswhenDavidMoyle(Longsong)andMarkLaBrooy
(Three Blue Ducks) arrive. They’ve been on the hunt for Cape
Barren geese, and judging by the splash of blood down LaBrooy’s
shin,it’sDucks1-Geese0.
AquickespressoatATasteofFlindersandachatwithlocal
fermentationguruJonHizzard,andAtalaiskeentogetintothe
action.SuitedupwithMoyleandLaBrooy,thethreedivejustoff
the shoreline of Vansittart Island, one of the Furneaux Islands.
“I didn’t see any plastic on the sea,” Atala says. “This makes
ahugeimpression;howcleaneverythingis.Thisisbreathtaking.”
Thisrespect,hesays,isnoticeableintheTasmanianingredients.
Abalone is passed up to our skipper, Rockjaw Tours’ Chris
Rhodes,beforebeingexpertlydispatchedonthebackshelfofthe
moving boat. Atala later tells me: “Before Flinders Island I knew
about greenlip abalone and someone told me they’re not the
best.Itisn’ttrue,thoseabalonecouldeasilybeoneofthebest.”
OnVansittart, Rhodes introduces Atala to mutton bird, an
experiencethatisn’teasilyforgotten.“Thetexturewasdifferent,
thesmellwasdifferent,”saysAtala.“Myfirstthoughtwastuna.
Iwasn’teatingabird,Iwaseatingatuna.Itwasa‘wow’moment.”
Asthesunsets,thetableislaidfordinnerwithadifferenceat
producerMickGrimshaw’shouse.Asmallgroupgathertofeast
on the island’s bounty: scallops, pickled pigface, wallaby
carpaccio, crayfish, lamb and the Cape Barren goose bagged
by Moyle and LaBrooy.
WhilechefCateHardmanfromATasteofFlindersisslatedto
becooking,Atalacannotresistgettinginontheaction,preparing
crayfishwhiletheroomwatches–it’snoteverydaythatyouget
amasterclassfromoneoftheworld’sbest.Downthebench,
LaBrooyandMoylearepitchingin,asisislandproducerTomYoul.
Thisis,Hizzardtellsme,justhowthingsworkonFlinders.
It’sevidentafteraweekthatwhereverAtalagoesthere’s
connection. While everyone is trying to feed him, there’s also
somethingbeyondtryingtoimpresstheman:afraternity.Heputs
it down to this generation of chefs not seeing one another as
purely competitors; that shared values create connections and
camaraderie that cross borders. “Those guys have this,” he says
of Moyle and LaBrooy. “I admire them... no one is trying to show
off,wearejustboysinthesea.”
While there’s no bragging to be done when Atala is around,
there’sadefinitefrissonwhenhe’sintheroom.Peoplewantto
meetthemanandchefswanttoleaveanimpression.Ataprivate
dinner hosted by MONA’s David Walsh, MONA head chef Vince
Trimgoesbig,deliveringantstothemanwhowasthefirstto
serve them in a fine-dining context. There are mealworms,
crickets,wholecookedwallaby,curedandsmokedpossum.There
are bones and skulls, MONA’s dark vision laid out as Atala’s last
tasteofTasmania.Atleastfornow.Ashesays:“Idobelieve this
place is unique. I would like to experience more.”delicious.com.au 39