Delicious Australia – (03)March 2019

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THE GREEK MEZEof the
Gods,taramasalata, is
made from the salted and
cured roe of cod (grey
mullet and carp, too).
Whippedintoacreamydelightwith
lemon,oliveoilandpotatoorbread,it’s
the crack of dips, and sounds like a dance
you’ddobeforeyourfinalshotofouzo.
Nevertheless,at Greca, Brisbane’s
latest riverside Greek restaurant (from the
team behind Sydney’s award-winning The
Apollo), the taramasalata is compulsory. At
leastitshouldbe.It’scrownedwithsalmon
roeandcomeswitheitherfreshlybaked
flatbreadorfries.I’mafanoftheformer.
Andjust as The Apollo smashed our
perceptions of Greek restaurants, Greca
ismakingwaveswithinthenewheritage-
listedHoward Smith Wharves precinct.
OwnerJonathanBarthelmessand
group executive chef Nic Wong are giving
BrisbaneaMedmakeoverwithatwo-level
setting boasting attention to detail to rival
anyrestaurantintown.Butthisisnostiff,
fine-diningforum.Grecaisarelaxedaffair
whereeveryoneiswelcomeforafeast
thatwouldpleaseBacchusandDionysus.
Interiordesigner George Livissianis has
released his inner Mediterranean island
tavernawithwhiteandblue,blond
timbers, polished concrete floors and cane
furniture.There’saneat-atbarandopen
kitchenfuelledbyafirepit,anditall
sprawls out to an alfresco setting for

thosewholiketowatchthedeepblueas

they sip on a Greca Spritz (lemon, Otto’s

‘Athens’ Vermouth, mastica, prosecco,

rosemary).Bewarned,it’sgotakick.

It’sabeautifulsetting,andthesmart

andsincereswaggerofwaitstaffmakesit

idealtojustsitbackandenjoytheculinary

credentialsofWongandBarthelmess.

There’sarangeofsmalldishestoshare,

butfansofTheApollowillbepleasedto

see the signature seared saganaki cheese,

bubbling in honey and oregano, and the

wild weed and cheese spanakopita. Order

thetrifectawithtaramasalata to complete

yourlong, languid lunch.

Redemperorshinesmarinatedinlemon

juice,andmakesastellarsaladwith

grapefruit, orange, witlof and fried capers.

There’saraftofseafooddestinedfor

thegrill–sardineswithatomatoandonion

salad, octopus with potato and oregano,

and calamari with lemon and thyme. And,

ofcourse,it’shardtopassonthebaked

lamb shoulder. But a gorgeously grilled

pork chop on a bed of garlic and parsley

chimichurri is a nice alternative. Served

withwhatI’mcallingmynewfavouriteside

dish–okra,blisteredcherrytomatoes,

mintandvinegar–it’shardtofault.

Dessert doesn’t alter these pleasing

perceptions. Barthelmess’ homage to his

hometown pastry,katoumari,seesbuttery

filo backed by walnuts and semolina

cream.It’ssogood,you’llfindithardto

say taramasalata when you’re done.

GREECE IS THE WORD

FROM LEFT:Greca’s

breathtaking riverside

backdrop; Greek flavours

abound, including the

classic – and standout –

taramasalata (inset).

PHOTOGRAPHY

NIKKI TO

REVIEW.

@huckstergram @anthuckstep

For more of our critic’s dining picks.

REVIEWED ONLINE THIS MONTH

Continental CBD, Sydney CBD, NSW

Bomba, Melbourne CBD, VIC

Alberto’sLounge, Sydney CBD, NSW

Trinket, Melbourne CBD, VIC

GRECA

CUISINE

Contemporary Greek

CHEFSNic Wong and

Jonathan Barthelmess

VISIT3-5 Boundary Street,

Howard Smith Wharves, Brisbane

OPENING HOURS

Daily from midday to late

BOOKINGS

(07) 3839 1203

greca.com.au

PRICE$$$

BYONo

OTHER FEATURES

Bar, private mezzanine dining

CHILD FRIENDLY Ye s

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