Delicious Australia – (04)April 2019

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IT SPARKED Agrass fire
thathas run rampant
through Canberra’s dining
landscapeeversince.Yep,
Sean McConnell’s vision for
arestaurantinsidetheartsyHotelHotel
(these days the Ovolo Nishi) manifested
as some kind of magnificent Monster. With
bar,loungeanddining(plusprivateroom)
sprawledoverthehotel’sgroundfloor,she
embodied all the energy of the new wave
of Australian dining; one that focuses on
qualityingredients,moderncookery
leaning on Japanese and Middle Eastern
techniques, quality plonk and a casual yet
stylish sensibility.
Nevertheless,McConnell has left the
buildingforhisfirstsoloventure,Rebel
Rebel. Elevated to chief Monster tamer
isheadchefDanFlatt(who’sworkedwith
McConnellforthepastfouryears),under
theguidanceofnewculinarydirectorIan
Curley. What is pleasing since the whip
has been passed on is that Flatt’s food
is just as satisfying.
Monsteritself hasn’t changed much.
Thelounge/barremainsawarmrespite
for aperitifs, nightcaps and pre-movie
mocktails, while the restaurant feels more
open.Itsmismatchedfurnitureranges
from super sleek to awful, but the textured
walls, panelled ceiling and stone floors
give Monster its own identity.
Andso,backtoFlatt’sfood.It’sclearthe
four years under McConnell’s wing have

eitherrubbedoffonhim,orthepairclearly

workshoppeddishconcepts(I’mvotingfor

thelatter),becausethereisagenuine

synergybetweentheoldandnew.

Openforbreakfast,lunch,dinnerand

all meals in-between (surely I’m not the

only one who has more than three meals

aday?)Monsteris,well,quiteabeast.

But Flatt’s generous portions, ability to

balancecomplexflavoursandwillingness

topushtheboatoutcouldhappily sate

thewildest of creatures.

Cubed cured kingfish partners squares

ofdashijellybeneathlight,aerated

pork skin bubble sprinkled in Japanese

furikake. It’s a textural triumph. Meanwhile,

jamónand basil leaves decorate a tumble

of heirloom tomatoes lathered in

stracciatellaandahintofharrisa.

Delightfully toothsome wild rice provides

a bed for lightly battered Sichuan pepper

tofu topped with coriander and garlic

shoots.Thenagorgeous,blackened

flat-iron steak lands blushingly pink inside.

Onion,blackgarlicandapuddleof

chimichurriprovideaclevervinegar-

focused ally to balance the rich flesh.

Itmightbeallaboutsharedplates,

amodus operandiwheresomedinersfeel

theymissoutontheirfairshare,buteven

bigeaterswon’tbedisappointedbythe

appropriatelymonstrousserves.Ifyou

have room, perhaps opt for the seasonal

fruitsorbetfollowedbyanightcap,and

a howl or two at the moon, in the bar.

Whenitcomestoculinarycool,Monsteristakingonthecolossal

task of putting Canberra on the map, writesAnthony Huckstep.

CAPITAL GAIN

FROM LEFT:Monster’s

sleek bar; eclectic

furnishings feature in

the Salon; John Dory

chraymeh, kohlrabi and

watercress dressing.

PHOTOGRAPHY

OVOLO HOTELS

REVIEW.

@huckstergram @anthuckstep

For more of our critic’s dining picks.

REVIEWED ONLINE THIS MONTH

Santini Bar & Grill, Perth, WA

Hellenika at the Calile, Fortitude Valley, QLD

GeneralChao, Chatswood, Sydney, NSW

Island Market, Trigg, WA

MONSTER

CUISINE

Contemporary

CHEF

Dan Flatt

VISIT

25 Edinburgh Ave, Canberra, ACT

OPENING HOURS

6.30am to late Monday to Sunday

BOOKINGS

(02) 6287 6287

monsterkitchen.com.au

PRICE

$$$

BYO

No

CHILD FRIENDLY

Ye s

38 delicious.com.au