Delicious Australia – (06)June 2019

WHENWEDINEoutit’s
generallyaboutenjoying
ourchosencompany,not
tospendaneveningwith
thecheforrestaurantstaff.
ButJoyis different.Thistiny10-seat
restaurantdeliversa diningexperience
thatturnstheregularnightoutonitshead.
AtJoy,it feelslikeyou’rehavingan
intimatedinnerwiththeonlytwopeople
workingthere– ownersTimandSarah
Scott.All 10 guestsperchat thekitchen
countereagerlyawaitingtheirchoiceofa
five-ornine-coursemeal,whiletheScotts
playtheroleofwaitstaff,sommelier,chef
anddishwasher.It’sa lovelydisplayofhow
tomaketherestaurantexperiencespecial
withoutallthepompandceremony.
Withtwoseatings,6pmand8:30pm,
youneedtoarriveontime,aseachcourse
ismadein frontofyouandservedto
everyoneat thesametime.It‘san
immersivediningexperience.
Onarrival,Sarahshowsdinerstotheir
seat– stoolsalonga counterrunningthe
lengthofthenarrowroom– andoffersan
aperitifwhileTimpreparesthefirstcourse.
Onewallis a kaleidoscopeofgraffiti,the
otheris awashwithstainlesssteelandthe
calmtheatreoftwofinechefsplyingtheir
trade.Drinkstakencareof,SarahjoinsTim
andtheygetbusyplatingupthefirst
course– cornchawanmushi. Tr aditionally
anumami-richsavouryeggcustard,here,
in a corn rendition, it’s slightly denser and

garnishedwithsouredpumpkin,dried

scallopandglobesofsmokedtroutroe.

Aldenteconfitsquid,tossedin zucchini

pureeandtoppedwitha mountainofbaby

herbs,looksandeatslikepasta.It’sa

wonderfuldish,butbyplatingup 10 at

onceit couldhavebenefittedfrombeing

slightlywarmer.Housemadebuckwheat

breadrollsarriveat thelastforkfultohelp

swipeuptheremainingzucchinipuree.

Sure,I maybea suckerforchickenfat

andskin,buttheScotts’redcabbage

cookedin chickenfat,crownedwithcrisp

chickenskinandcranberryhibiscusleaf

temperedbypickledcucumber,is a

delight.Rich,lightanddeeplysatisfying.

Gingeredcucumbersandsalteddaikon

makea greataccompanimenttoslow-

cookedshortribthat’sblushingpinkinside

andblackenedsweetoutsidethanksto

a blackvinegarglaze.A delightfully

refreshingmelon,jalapenoandmint

granitawouldsufficeforyourstruly,butis

onlya pre-dessert.TheScotts’takeonthe

Frenchmeringuemedley‘MontBlanc’

partnersmaltartichoke,Chantillyandan

unnecessarygoldleafatop.It’sa popular

finaleamongmyfellowninediners.

Joyfeedsourneedforsomethinga bit

special,butengagesfarmorewiththe

dinerthanmanyBrisbanecontemporaries.

It couldfeelformal,withtheartfulfood

andtastingmenu,butanynotionofthat

is dispelledbytheScotts’affablemanner

and personal touch. A joy, indeed.

TWO’S COMPANY...

FROMLEFT:guestsdine
withtheirbackstoan
exuberantlygraffitiedwall;
findJoyattheendof
BakeryLane;venison
tartarewithroasted
golden sesame emulsion.

PHOTOGRAPHY

VANESSA VAN DALSEN

REVIEW.

@huckstergram @anthuckstep

For more of our critics’ dining picks.

REVIEWEDONLINETHISMONTH

Canton!Canton!,SydneyCBD

Ton& Co.,Windsor,Melbourne

SoulDining,SurryHills,Sydney

Johnny’s Green Room, Carlton, Melbourne

JOY

CUISINE

Contemporary

CHEFS

TimandSarahScott

VISIT

BakeryLane, 694 AnnSt,FortitudeValley

OPENINGHOURS

WednesdaytoSunday8am-noon(coffee

and pastries);6pm-late(dinner)

BOOKINGS

0412425626

joyrestaurant.com.au

PRICE

$$$

BYO

No

CHILDFRIENDLY

No

delicious.com.au

BOOKA

TABLENOWAT

34 delicious.com.au