It‘stimetosoupupyourthinkingwhenit
comestofoodyoueatwitha spoon.And
Mike Bennie has picks to bowl you over.@mikebennie101 @mikebennie101FLUIDS ITUATIONCHUNKYSOUP:
MEADOWBANKSYRAH
2018,$45Tasmaniaand
syrah(shiraz)arenot
especiallysynonymous,
buta high-profilewine
trophyfora local
producerthrustthe
varietyintothelimelight.
Thisis a svelte,spicy,
silkyredofpurityand
vitality.Matchwith
something ultra hearty.BEEFANDVEGETABLE
SOUP:THOMASWINES
TWOOFA KINDSHIRAZ
2 0 17,$25There’s a
historicaltraditionof
blendingMcLarenVale
andHunterValleyshiraz,
butfewproducers
keeptheexchange
alive.Enterwinemaker
AndrewThomas.Thisis
outstanding;rich,deep
and dark, with fine tannins.HEARTYVEGETABLE
SOUP:HELLYERSROAD
ORIGINALSINGLEMALT
WHISK Y,$85Australian
whiskyhascomefarand
standstallamongglobal
examples,withHellyers
Roadin a higherechelon.
Thisis a smoothdramwith
caramel,sweetspice,light
smokinessanda lickof
honeyed sweetness.SPICEDPUMPKINSOUP:
GRIFTERPALEALE,$5.50
Manyreachfora dark
beer,porterorstoutin
winter,butit’s greatto
findotherstylesthat
suittheseason.Thisis
essentiallya smashable
paleale,butdelivers
enoughhoppy-malty
complexitytopush
through cooler times.PEAANDHAMSOUP:DE
BORTOLIVILLAGES
TEMPRANILLOTOURIGA
2018,$20DeBortoliexcels
atvalueformoney,packing
inheapsofflavourand
generallywitha touchof
class.Thisfleshyredhasrich
aromasofforestberries,
sweetspiceandlicorice,
withsimilarflavoursand
soft,finetannins.It’s
easy-drinking personified.ONEOFTHEmorevexingthingsin the
landscapeofwineanddrinksis what
tomatchwithsoup.Liquidonliquid,
heatandcold...it’salla bitofa mess!
Common-sensedrinkmatchingsays
tomarrytexturewithtexture,sofuller-
flavouredredwineswithstewsand
slow-cookeddishes;light,crispthings
with,say,rawseafoodorotherproduce
thathas‘delicateflavours’.Butwhat do
youdowhenthedishis fluid?
Severalyearsago,I interviewedmaster
sommelierSebastianCrowther,whotold
mehewas“allaboutlighter,fresherwhite
winesforsouppairing.Manysoupshave
fineflavours,sothinkofthewineasa
squeezeoflemonorlightseasoningrather
thana feature.”I likethatsentiment.
I figured,though,I’dbettergeta
secondopinion.“Youneeddrinkswith
cutanddryness,”statesaward-winning
sommelierandMary’sGroupwine
directorCaitlynRees.“Tanninin wine
is a goodstart.Farmhousecider,too.
Somespiritscanalsomatch,butanything
withovertalcoholcanoverwhelmsoups.
“I findthatorangewines– whitewines
madelikeredwines– workverywell,too.
Thechalkytextureaddsa freshening
puckeraftera sip,andlendsdryness
tothepalateasa counterbalance.”
I recalloneofmyfavouritewineand
foodmatchescamewhilevisitingthe
FriuliregionofnortheastItaly,where
orangewinesaretraditional.While
workingthroughamber-colouredwines
attheRadikonvineyard,a simplesoup
offreshzucchiniwassetalongside.
Therobusttanninsandsavouriness
ofthewinesfelt like the final condiment
tothedish.
Aswithallthingswineanddrinks,
letpersonaltastedictateyourdecision.
ThemeasuresgivenbyCrowtherand
Reesallowforsomewidthin the
matchingprocess.Soupsrangefrom
lightandsubtlethroughtocreamyor
hearty,sotherearemyriad options.
Spoons at the ready!delicious.com.au/drinks
ToperusemoreofMike’s
favourite drinks. MIKE BENNIE IS ALSO CO-OWNER OF A SYDNEY-BASED WINE AND LIQUOR RETAIL BUSINESSVICHYSSOISESOUP:
HARKHAMWINESHARK
ANGELROSÉ2018,$28
Roséis associatedwith
summerfun,butused
righteously,andnotserved
toocold,it impressesasa
foilformoregenerously
flavoureddishes.This
crunchydropis produced
naturally,withoutsulphur,
andofferscranberryand
blood orange characters.DRINKS.
36 delicious.com.au