Delicious Australia – (07)July 2019

(Comicgek) #1

INVARIOUSFORMSof
ThePotovermanyyears,
thiscomfortablysqueezy
eateryonKingWilliam
Road has had an influence
tobelieitssize.
Now,rebadgedasNido(Italianfor
‘nest’),thatlookssettocontinue,witha
passionateyoungcouplein chargeofthe
kitchenandplentyofhospitality nous to
overseeproceedings.
Thisis a placewhereyoucanordera
$500-plusbottleofboutiquebubbles
(thoughmostwillsettleforcomparatively
humbleprosecco),whilelisteningtoThe
Pretenders,BoyGeorgeandotherhitsof
the’80s.Thereis evena selection of vinyl
forlaterin thenight.
Whilethebonesoftheroomremain
thesamefromitspreviousincarnation,
thespacehasbeendecluttered,making
moreofa featureofits black tiles and
sleekpencillights.
SimonKardachiandpartners– Nido’s
owners– havealreadyestablishedtheir
Italiancredwiththebeguilingpiazza
ambienceandkitchencraftofOsteria
Oggiin nearbyAdelaideCBD.Thisgives
Nidoa solidfoundationforthehusband-
and-wifecombinationofMaxSharrad
andLauraCassaitoshowoffthe
handmade pasta and other Italian dishes


towhichtheyareboth drawn through
theirfamilyties.
ChrisWoodcockandLauraDimasi
keepgoodtimesrollingoutfront.
FollowingtheleadofItaly’svillage
bars,Nidohopesthatlocalswilldrop
byfora quickglassofsomethingonthe
wayhome,aswellasa fullmeal.
Soit offersplentyofsnackoptions,
includingitsownversionoftheanchovy
ontoast(herewithstracciatellaand
fermentedchilli)thathasbecomea
Kardachisignature,orthemoresubtle
delightsoffreshlypickedblueswimmer
crabandpickledcucumber.
Thepasta-makingis Laura’sdomain
andhergentlyrolledandpinchedfarfalle
(bow-tieshapedpasta)worksbrilliantly
witha sauceofshreddedcavolonero,
silverbeetandchillithatbecomes
trappedin thefolds.Forsomething
meatier,lookforthepieceofsirloin
displayedundera glassclocheonthe
counterandnominate how thick you’d
likeyoursteak.
Getintotheswingofaperitivotime
withsignaturemixessuchasthe
AmeritonicorVermouthCalling.Italian
varietiesdominatethewineselection,
whetherproducedathomeoraway,
withmanychoicesaroundthe$50mark,
but also a top-shelf barolo or two.

A stalwartoftheAdelaidefoodscenemayhavechangedgears–
and name – butSimon Wilkinson finds it’s still firing on all cylinders.

FROM POT TO PASTA


FROMLEFT:havea snackatNido’sbar
orpastain itspolisheddiningroom;
fresh pastais handmadedaily;gnocchi,
tomato, pancetta and mint.

REVIEW.


@simon_food @Simon_food

For more of our critics’ dining picks.

REVIEWEDONLINETHISMONTH
Honto,FortitudeValley,Brisbane
ChioscobyOrmeggio,Mosman,Sydney
ArimiaWinery& Restaurant,Wilyabrup, WA
Kitchen by Mike, Sydney CBD

NIDO

CUISINE
Italian
CHEFS
Max SharradandLaura Cassai
VISIT
2/160 KingWilliamRd,Hyde Park,
Adelaide
OPENINGHOURS
TuesdaytoSunday,12pmtill late
BOOKINGS
(08) 83732044
nidobarpasta.com.au
PRICE
$$$
BYO
No
CHILDFRIENDLY
No

delicious.com.au

BOOKA
TABLENOWAT

38 delicious.com.au

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