Delicious Australia – (10)October 2019

IT’SHARDTOfathomlife
withoutsandwiches.In
lunchboxes,onpicnicrugs,
whendiningal deskoorin
a fancyhotellobbybar,as
thecasemaybeat NeilPerry’sR BarBy
Rockpool,they’retheultimateforsatiation.
Setin thelobbyofCrownTowers
Melbourne,the110-seaterdraws
inspirationfromthegoldeneraofcocktails
andsomeoftheworld’sbestlobbybars.
RBarstartswithseatingin Crown’s
lobby,asif diningalfrescoindoors.
Butfortherealexperience,stepinside
wherehighceilingshousehand-blown
glasschandeliersandolivevelvetcurtains,
bronze-mirroredpanellinganddark
timberslinethespace.Thereare
smallgoodshangingin glasscabinets,
a wallofbarrelscontainingagedspirits
andpre-batchedcocktails,andthere’s
aspiritedwinelistcommontothe
RockpoolGroup’smodusoperandi.
It’sthesortofplacethatcouldprovide
fuelfortheevening,ratherthanbeinga
stopgapbeforemovingtoanothervenue.
Themusic,however,whichcurrently
soundslikethewelcomemusicona hotel
room’stelevision,coulddowitha re-think.
Backtothingssandwichedbetween
bread;thereare 15 itemsonthemenu–
if you include the burgers. There’s also an

abundantcaviarservice,charcuterie,

cheese,tinnedfish,savouriesandsnacks.

Thepickofthesmallerthingsis a round

ofgildas– anchovy,olivesandpickled

guindillasona stick,aswellasthesimple

Waldorfsaladandhouse-madepork

sausagerollstoppedwithtomatosauce.

There’sa bigclubsandwich,a meat-free

earthburger(confitmushroom,lettuce,

tomato,beetroot)anda classicAmerican

burgerwithgrass-fedbeef,pickles,

mustardandcheese.It hasa great

combinationofflavours,butthecheeseis

straightfromthefridge– notmeltedat all.

Sandwichesrangefromdelightful

bite-sizedsquaresfilledwithcucumber

andmustard,toa pedestrianpreserved

tunawithRussianpotatosalad.

I lovecrustybread,butit doesn’twork

withsandwiches,unlessyouenjoyhaving

yourmouthlacerated.Thechoiceoffluffy

BakerBleubreadis ideal,especiallywhen

wrappingyourlaughinggeararound

‘TheGodmother’.InspiredbyBayCities

ItalianDeliin SantaMonica,California,the

sandwichcombineshotsauce,smoked

ham,hotsopressa,prosciutto,mortadella,

capocollo,cucumberandprovolone.

R BarbyRockpoolisn’tuptherewith

thegreatlobbybarsoftheworld,butit’s

certainlymorethana stopona bignight

out, which has it ahead of most.

...andstayfordrinksandsnacks?ThenewR BarbyRockpoolat

CrownTowersMelbourneprovesa hotellobbybarcanbemore than

just a time-filler, andAnthony Huckstep is ready to settle in.

MEET IN THE LOBBY

FROMLEFT:

RBar’sinteriors

areinspiredbythe

goldenage;order

classicbarfood;

alongwithstandout

sandwiches.

REVIEW.

@huckstergram @anthuckstep

For more of our critics’ dining picks.

REVIEWEDONLINETHISMONTH

LordLygon,Carlton,Melbourne

Duck& Rice,SydneyCBD

Franca,PottsPoint,Sydney

Slice Shop Pizza, Footscray, Melbourne

R BAR

CUISINE

Sandwichbar

CHEF

NeilPerry

VISIT

The Lobby,CrownTowersMelbourne

OPENINGHOURS

MondaytoFriday7am-late;

SaturdayandSunday8:30am-late

BOOKINGS

(03) 86481900

rbarbyrockpool.com.au

PRICE

$$$$

BYO

No

delicious.com.au

BOOKA

TABLENOWAT

PHOTOGRAPHY

TIM SHAW

36 delicious.com.au