ChristineManfield’s lovefortheSouthAmericannationgrows as she
experiences Chile’s deep connection to Mother Nature.DOWN TO EARTHCHILEBUZZESWITHculturalvibrancyandgastronomicpassion,andI havesuccumbed
tothislandofcontrastsandbeauty.A flightacrosstheSouthPacificlandsin Santiago,
Chile’scapital,whereI amtransportedintotherichmeltingpotofitsfoodculture,
kickstartingeachvisitwithanobligatorypiscosour.A leisurelylunchatAmbrosiaBistro,
chefCarolinaBazán’snewhotspot,is worthbeatinga pathto.Graba seatat thebarand
chooseanythingfromhermenushowcasingcontemporaryChilean cuisine. The steamed
duckbuns,seaurchinsandwichandfishtacosaresuperb.
TheSingularHotelin thebohemiandowntownLastarriadistrictpamperswith
elegance,warmthandswitched-onservice.Atsunset,I head to the rooftop terrace for
aperitivoat thebar,andtofeelthepulseofthecity.
I havetravelledChile’slength– fromtheglaciersandruggedmountainsofPatagonia,
tothelunarlandscapesoftheAtacamaDesert,theislandsofChiloé,thedreamyportcity
ofValparaísoandthevineyardsoftheColchagua,MaipoandCasablancavalleys.This
timeI venturesouthtothelakedistrictaroundPucón,wheresnow-coveredvolcanoes
dominatethelandscape.I stayat&BeyondViraVira, a countryestateestablishedby
MichaelandClaudiaParavicini,andmanagedby&Beyond.Aspioneersin conservation,
theirplatformembracessustainabilityandcommunity.ViraVirasitsin theshadowofthe
Villarricavolcanoandis surroundedbya workingorganicfarmandcheesefactorythat
suppliesthekitchen.There’sseasonalbountyforchefDamien and his team, who prepare
delightsthatcelebratethebestoffarm-to-tablepractice.
I stayin oneoftheriver-facingvillasandponderwhichofthetailor-madeactivities
I willindulgein.I decideonwhitewaterraftingwithlocalguidePatrizio,horse riding, and
trekkingthroughtheVillarricaNationalParktothreestunningwaterfalls.
Tobein thispartoftheworld,Araucanía,is tocomprehendthespiritualityandheritage
ofitsindigenousMapuchetribalculture.Theyhavea powerfulrelationshipwithnature
andreverethegeographicalelementsoftheirhomeland,respecting,appreciatingand
caringfortheirlandanditsresources.Shoesarenotworninsidetheirhouses,whichhave
harddirtfloors,sothatbarefeethavea directconnectiontoMotherEarth.Theircultureis
keptalivethroughstorytelling,andtraditionsarebasedonnatureandhowtointerpretit.
InQuelhue,a nearbyvillage,I visitRosario,a localmedicinewomanandrespected
elder.Wesitin herruka(house)assheperformsherdailyrituals– toastingmote(wheat)
overa fireandgrindingit tomakeflourfora densediscofbread,likea thicktortilla,that
sheburiesin hotashestocook.Shepreparesvegetableempanadas,followedbycazuela,
a Chileansoupofbeans,chicken,potato,pumpkinandcorn,seasonedwithmerquén,
localchillidriedonlengthsofstringhungfromtherooftotakeona smokyflavourfrom
thefire.Thisis thestapleflavouring,andRosarioshowsmehowshegrindsthechilli with
garlicandlardtomakea pastetoservewiththebreadshecookedin thecoals.
AsI leave,I saychaltumay– ‘thankyou’in Mapudungun,thelanguageofMapuche, with
merquén to take home, an enduring taste memory of my Chilean adventure.
ZUCCHINIANDSWEETCORN
EMPANADAS
MAKES 222 tbsextravirginoliveoil
4 longgreenshallots,thinly sliced
4 garliccloves,crushed
2 smallgreenchillies,finely chopped
1 tspdriedchilliflakes
2 zucchini,cutinto5mmpieces
1 corncob,boiledfor3 minutes,
kernelsremoved(^1) / 4 cup(35g)gratedmanchego
(^1) / 2 bunchcoriander,roughlychopped
6 frozenpuffpastrysheets,thawed
1 eggyolk,lightlybeaten,towash
Store-bought chimichurri, to serve
Placeoilin a largefrypanoverhighheat.
Addlonggreenshallot,garlic,chilliand
chilliflakesandcookfor3-4minutesuntil
softened.Addzucchiniandcookfor
2-3minutesuntilsoftened.Removefrom
heatandstirthroughcorn,manchegoand
coriander.Seasonandsetasidetocool.
Usingan8cmroundpastrycutter,cut
22 roundsofpastryandlayerbetween
bakingpapertopreventsticking.Chill.
Preheatovento220°C.Grease2 large
bakingtraysandlinewithbakingpaper.
Spoon1 tbszucchinimixtureintothe
centreofeachpastryround.Brushedge
withwaterandfoldovertoforma
half-moon,crimpingedgeswithyour
fingersora fork.Placeonpreparedtrays
andbrushwitheggwash,thenchillfor
30 minutes.Bakefor15-20minutesuntil
golden.Coolslightly before serving
with chimichurri.