HEAD FOR THE HILLS
Drivingtowardsthecentralhillcountry,
thestickyheatispersistent:ourdriver,
Charlie, stops outside Kandy and comes
back bearing fresh king coconuts, the
shellsofwhichwe’veseenpiledroadside
liketemplestothegodsoftropical
hydration. The bone-rattling drive up
the monkey-riddled mountains is
rewarded upon arrival atAshburnham
Estate,adelightful1930sboutique
guesthouseonaworkingteaplantation,
filled with books on butterflies and
[Sri Lankan-born author] Michael
Ondaatje classics, with breeze-strewn
bedrooms boasting magnificent views.
Ashburnham’s kitchen will have your
tastebudstravellingfromcolonial
England(thinkraisinspongeserved
withtheestate’sowntea,andpre-dinner
G&Ts on the verandah) to Sri Lankan
crabcurrymadeusingchef Reggie’s
wife’s secret spice mix.
Asthesunsets,it’sasthoughwaves
ofgoldandpinkdustarespillingover
the mountains; rippled clouds obscure
wherethelandendsandtheskybegins.
Morningsbloomfreshandgreen–don’t
missthechancetomarvelatthegraceful
womenwhodeftlypicktheestate’stea
leaves as the rolling vistas dance behind
them in the ever-changing light.
THEREMOTEGAL
OYA NATIONAL
PA RK FE ELS
POSITIVELY
PREHISTORICGLOBAL FLAVOURS.