@chefmattmoran
IFTHEREWASevera timefora sliceofcake,thisis it.In a climatewherecomfortis
in shortsupply(alongwithsomepantrystaplesmorerecently),thesweetritualof
bakingprovidessolace.Andthat’swhereMattMorancomesin.“I loveflourless
cakesbecausethey’rewholesome,”hesays.“Theyhavea bitmoreproteinin them
becauseyou’reusingnutmeals.Theyalsotendtobemoredensewhich,forme,
makesthemverycomforting.”Allthat’slefttodois addsomeseasonalproduce
suchasrhubarb,applesandmandarins,andyouhavea cakethat’suptothetask.
“I likeusingsomedifferentsweeteners,too,likenativehoneyforitsfloraltones,
molassesforrichness,andrapaduraforthemaltinessit brings.And,ofcourse,some
autumn spices: fennel, cinnamon, cloves. It gives these cakes a real warmth.”
MATT MORAN.