ASPARAGUSMIGAS
(TRADITIONALBREAD DISH),
GRILLEDPORK
SERVES4-6
“Bejais a citythathasdominatedthe
dusty,food-bowlplainsoftheAlentejo
region,southofPortugal,forthousandsof
years.TheRomansplantedolivegroves
hereandtheareais stillfamousforwheat
(andthebreadmadefromit) andanything
youcanmakefromtheexcellentpigshere.
Alentejanacookingis robust,honest
anddelicious.Froma classicpoorman’s
soupofpoachedeggs,verdantwith
loadsofcoriander,andsilkywithsoaked
stalebread(acorda), todishesthat pair
clamswithporkandpotatoes.
In Beja,localshavea loveforthegrill,
butthemostinterestingthingI triedwas
thegrilledporkneckservedwiththeBeja
versionofmigas(a traditionalbreaddish).
Ratherthanthecrispyfriedbreadcrumbs
ofSpain,thismigascomesasa hearty
breadpuddingcookedusingporkfat.
Thebestversionshavecrispysideslike
anomeletteandareloadedwith
asparagus, as seen in the following recipe.”
500gporkneck,cutinto1cmslices,
tenderisedusingmeatmallet
Extravirginoliveoil,todrizzle
Lemon wedges, to serve
MIGAS
2 bunches(approx 250g) asparagus,
trimmed(^1) / 4 cup(60ml)extravirgin olive oil,
plusextra2 tbs
10 (100g)streakybacon rashers,
finelychopped
350gstalesourdough
(^1) / 2 bunchflat-leafparsley,finely
chopped,plusextraleavestoserve
3 garliccloves,finelychopped
2 tsp white wine vinegar
Placethetenderisedporkona largeoven
tray,drizzlewitholiveoilandseasonboth
sides.Setasideatroom temperature
untilreadytouse.
Forthemigas,cutthetipsofthe
asparagustoabout4cmlongandslice
thestemsinto5mmrounds.Setaside
andreservein separatebowls.Heata
largenon-stickfrypanwitholiveoilover
medium-highheat.Addthebaconand
cook,stirringfrequently,for3-5minutes
untilgoldenandcrisp.Draincrispybacon
onpapertowelandreservebaconfat.
Placethebreadin a bowlandsprinkle
over^1 / 2 cup(125ml)hotwater.Takingcare
oftheheat,squeezeexcesswaterfrom
thebread.Placethereservedbaconfat
in a largenon-stickfrypanovermedium-
high heat. Add the chopped parsley,
garlicandasparagustips.Cook,stirring
occasionally,for1-2minutesuntil
asparagustipsarejustcookedbutstill
crunchy,thentransfertoa bowl.Addthe
slicedasparagusandcook,tossing
frequently,for1-2minutesuntil
asparagusis justcookedbutstillcrunchy.
Transfertothemoistbreadbowl.
Addthevinegarandworkin withthe
baconfat,seasontotasteandtossto
combine.Adda littleextra water if the
mixtureis toodry.
Heata 26cmnon-stickfrypanwith
extra2 tbsoilovermedium-highheat.
Spoonin breadmixtureandspread
evenlyoverthebase,pushingdown
tocompresswell.Makesureit is the
samethicknessaroundthewholepan.
Cook,pushingdownoccasionally,for
8-10minutesuntilgoldenandcrisp.
Carefullyflipoutofthepanandonto
a largeheatproofoventrayandquickly
slideit backintothepan.Cook,pressing
downoccasionally,fora further
4-5minutesuntilgoldenandcrisp.
Transfertoa plateandkeep warm
untilreadytoserve.
Preheata lightlygreasedbarbecueor
chargrillpantohigh.In batches,chargrill
porkfor1-2minutesthenturnandgrill
fora further1-2minutesuntilcharredand
cooked through. Rest for 5 minutes.
FEWCOUNTRIESHAVEhadthesameimpactonmeasPortugal.Thedelicious
simplicityofthefood,thequalityoftheproduceandthewarmthofthe hospitality;
allhallmarksofa countrythatI couldquitecomfortablycallhome.
Thetripalsoinspiredanintensedesireformetotakeonsomeofthebestdishes
backherein Australia,aswellascreatesomenew,inspiredonesofmyown. Whatto
featurehereis a hardcall,sohereis anadmissionaboutomissions.Thewonderful
pregoroll,Bifanaandcrispyfingersofspider-fisheatenwiththewarmbeachpushing
upbetweenyourtoesanda chilledSuperBockMini(theworld’stiniestbeerbottle,
perfectforhotdays)dwarfedin yourfist– noneofthese,unfortunately,makethecut.
There’salsonoPortuguesegrilledchickenhere,nobroadbeanswithcrispyblack
puddingandnothingdeep-fried(evenif saltcodfrittersarelikea religion
inPortugal).Noris thereanyofthatomnipresentdessert,thatpudim(custard
pudding),butthereareenoughmemoriesforyoutotasteandenoughflavourcues
tosparkmoreofthem.Bomapetite! (Which,in well-manneredPortugal,is thephrase
that says you can start eating and not just the host’s wish for a hearty appetite.)
@mattscravat @MattsCravat
58 delicious.com.au