ON THE PASS withROSHEENKAUL,ETTA
WhatchangescanweexpecttoseeatEtta?I’mthethirdheadchefhere,so
in termsofchange,it’smoreofanevolution.We’vegota reallyloyalcustomer
base,andformethemostimportantthingwastokeepthemhappyandto
neveralienatethem.If it wasn’tpointedouttoyouthatthere’sHainanlantern
chillies,orcrispanchoviesonthemenu,youmaynotnotice,butthat’show
I putmyownpersonalityandmyheritageintoit. It’sstillEtta,butit’sEtta3.0.
Doyouhaveanyveganitemsonyourmenuatthemoment?BecauseI spent
a bitoftimeworkingatSmithandDeliduringlockdown,I learneda lotabout
mouth-feel,andtheintentbehindmakingveganfooddelicious.I’vecarried
a lotofthiswithmetoEtta.Allofourvegetariandishesonthemenucanbe
switchedouttobevegan.Soit’snotjustomittingitemstomakeit vegan,but
adding,sothatvegansareasvaluedasanyotherguest.
Whatelsehaveyoulearnedcreatinga menufora wine-focusedrestaurant
andbar?It’sbeenquiteinteresting.Forexample,I wantedtoputa devilled
eggonthemenu,butbecauseit’ssucha wine-focusedplace,therearea lot
ofconsiderationsI hadtotakeintoaccount.Oneofthembeing,something
that’sassulphuricasanegg,it doesn’treallypairverywellwithwine.It’sreally
abouthavingasmuchconsiderationforwhatyou’redrinking,aswellaseating,
it’sbeenfascinating.
Whatmakestheperfectwinesnack?I don’tthinkyoucangopastanoyster,
especiallywiththeproducersandfarmerswehaveaccessto.Atthemoment
I’mdoinganoysterwitha mignonettegranita.It’ssuperbright,superfreshand
youalsogetthatsalivationyougetfroma high-acidwine.
60 LygonSt,BrunswickEast,Melbourne,Vic,ettadining.com.auBrookie’sGinhasreleaseda fruitycumquat-spikedgindubbedShirlthePearl.The
seasonalreleasewasinspiredbyco-founderEddieBrook’sgrandmaShirl,whoused
tomakeherowncumquatgin.It hasstrongnotesoforangeblossom,mandarinand
marmalade.ShirlthePearl2020,$80for700ml,capebyrondistillery.comTurningthe tables
WhenBedThreads’founderGenevieveRosen
noticedhercustomersrepurposingtheirbedlinen
astablecloths,shesawanopportunity.“Wehad
consideredmovingfromthebedroom(andbathroom)
intothekitchenfora while,butthein-builtinterest
fromourcommunitygaveustheinspirationtocreate
somethingspecial,”saysRosen.Now,you’llfind
elegantFrenchtablelinen,includingtablecloths,
naperyandplacematsin a rangeofrichhues,ready
toadornyoursummertable.bedthreads.com.auGOURMET TRAVELLER 17PHOTOGRAPHY ANNIKA KAFCALOUDIS (ROSHEEN KAUL).
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