Last year’s bushfires left grape growers with severely
smoke-damaged crops but creativity in the face of
adversity has resulted in a number of wine-adjacent
offerings, including co-ferments (when beer meets
wine) and grape-based spirits (such as shiraz-based
eau de vie). Attempts to quickly remove smoke-
infused skins landed on handpicking, chilling
and then whole-bunch pressing. Hand-harvesting
reduced production by 50 per cent but gave the
heavy-hit industry a sellable product. Archie Rose
Distilling Co bought more than 50 tonnes of grape
crops destined for the bin. In support of the
Hunter Valley wine community, Archie Rose is
releasing product in a three-part series, and its
Shiraz Brandy is due to be released in late 2023.
Spirit Lab has adopted an unfermented and
little-to-no skin contact method to combat smoke
particles, with their Mistelle 2020 and Gin & Juice
both receiving a sell-out response.Asthehospitalitylandscapecontinues to
evolve in the wake of restaurant closures and
restrictions, expect to see more pop-ups and
collaborations as chefs look for opportunities
to support one another and flex their creative
muscle. Alanna Sapwell, former head chef of
Arc, brought Esmay to Noosa’s Wasabi for
threemonthslastyear,invitingAdelaidechef
EmmaMcCaskilltojoinherfora weekend
residency.JamesMacDonald,ofSydney’s
Hubert,crossedtheborderfora cameoat
Adelaide’sLeighStreetWineRoom,which
alsohostedTheSummertownAristologist’s
TomCampbellandAaronFenwick.Meanwhile,
British-Italiansteakhouse,TheMilanCricket
ClubhastakenoverSydney’sLaRosafor
summer,showcasingNikHill’stakeonBritish
classicslike“ThePigMack”,a pig’shead
schnitzelburger.Andthat’sjustthestart.➤Popping up
GOURMET TRAVELLER 57PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO (ARCHIE ROSE).