Australian Gourmet Traveller - (01)January 2020 (1)

16 GOURMET TRAVELLER

PHOTOGRAPHY ASHLEY ST GEORGE (KIOSK), NIKKI TO (THE OLD CLARE) & GETTY IMAGES (BYRON BAY).

Movers and

shakers

RE

ST

AU

RAN

TNEWS•

RES

TA

UR

AN

T

EN

SW

SYDNEY

CatchingbusesacrossLebanonto

carryoutfoodresearchandcranking

outmorethan 50 kilogramsoffalafel

mixfortaste-testingpurposes– that

wasjustpartofSimonZalloua’s

prepforopeningJimmy’sFalafel

atMerivale’sIvyprecinctin the

CBD.Thechef’smenuwillhavea

veg-heavyfocus,butfalafelis the

headlinerhere.JoiningthisMiddle

EasterneateryattheIvycomplex:

BarTotti’s. It mightbea scaled-down

spin-offofMerivale’sBondirestaurant,

Totti’s,butMikeEggertwillensure

thatBarTotti’sis a worthydetour,

thankstohisantipastidishesand

woodfiredbread.ColomboSocial,

a social-enterpriseeatery,in

Enmorehasopeneditsdoorsto

dinersseekinga menuinspired

bySriLanka(thinkbeetrootbahjis,

rotitacosandfriedchickenwith

a green-chilli mango glaze).

MELBOURNEAfternearlyfouryears

atQuay,RobKabboordhasreturned

toMelbournewitha pop-upatThe

HotelWindsorintheCBD.If the

nameLekker(Dutchfortasty)isn’t

alreadya clue,theventuredraws

ontheAmsterdam-bornchef’s

background.“Datis kaasvoorieder”

[it is toeveryone’sliking]takesits

cuesfromthecheesetrolleyat

Merricote(anotherformerhauntof

Kabboord’s),while“Oma’ssnert”

recallsthetimehisgranprepped

a severedpig’sheadforsoup.The

menualsooffersa playfultakeon

thechickenversuseggargument,

withthechefservingpoached

breast,confitlegs,crispchicken

skinwitha creammadefromthe

bones,andyolkcookedina

seaweedoil.“Thereisnowaste

andweareusingeverylittle

morseloftheanimal,”hesays.

CANBERRAAfterfinishingupat

BarRochfordearlylastyear,Louis

Couttoupesflexedhispassportfor

severalmonths:heheadedtoParis,

which revived his joy of dining out,

andHongKong,wherea $1.20meal

in anoldtofushopwasa highlight.

Myanmar,meanwhile,schooled

himinhot-weatherfermentsand

oldpreservationmethods.He’ll

drawontheseinfluencesatKiosk,

a p op-upwhichcontinueshisloveof

producer-focused,waste-minimising

dishessuchasgreenalmondswith

soft,smokymozzarella,and white

anchovypanzanella.

BRISBANE

TheteambehindLongtimehas

openedSameSameatFortitude

Valley’sAdaLane.Andasthename

suggests,theinspiredapproachto

Thaifoodremainswithdishessuch

asprawnlarbtacos,a lunch-only

SouthernThaifriedchickenburger

andbasilgelatowithlycheeand

gingergranitaandculturedcream.

DALLASCurtisStone’sGeorgie

is namedafterhisnieceandis his

secondcollaborationwithbrother

Luke.Themenuincludesfoiegras

tartwithpumpkinpreserveand

beet tartare served with red grapes.

Clockwisefrom

topleft:egg

hoppers,buttered

corn,vegetarian

kotturotiand

a signature

friedchicken

atSydney’s

ColomboSocial;

thebarcounter

atBrisbane’s

SameSame;

whiteanchovy

panzanella

atKiosk,

Canberra.

Whetheryou’re

drinkingit toprevent

a hangoverorjustfor

itssweetness,Bae

Juice(madefrom

Koreanpearsthat

arepackedwith

alcohol-metabolising

enzymes)mighthelp

witheasinginto

post-partyseasonthis

month.$24forsix,

baejuiceaus.com.au