founder– is pouringfroma list
that’saspleasurabletoreadasit
is todrinkfrom.Thelistopens
withYulli’sbrews,cocktails,
sparklingsandwild-fermented
beers,plussomedetours.“Apples
BetterThanGrapes?”it asksabove
a rovingciderselection.“What
AboutRice”it saysabovevibrant
FujiichiShuzoKanazawasake.
Yes,whataboutrice.
Wineshomeinonsmall
FrenchandItaliangrowers,
andwaiterswilltalkthrougha
catarrattomadefromgrapesgrown
inthevolcanicsoilofWestern
Sicilyasconfidentlyasthey’ll
digintotheamarisection.Paci
is clearlystaffedbypeoplewho’ve
drunkthedrinks,eatenthefood,
andwanttotellyouaboutit.
Letthem.They’llsteeryouto
cavatelliwiththetangofsourdough
starterthat’ssweetfromgratedpear
andsharpfrompecorino.They’ll
recommenda flounder,roastedtill
it’sbrownedontheoutsideandjust
cookedinthecentre,andserved
witha glossysauceFlorentine.
Petänen’sfoodis simple,
yetcerebral.Hetakesthekinda
rice-and-vegetablecasseroleyou
mightfindinHelsinkiandturns
it intoa cauliflowersteaktopped
withgarlic,chilliandbuttery
breadcrumbswitha cheesesauce
basedonovercookedwhiterice.
Clever, even if hacking through
thecauliflowerstalkwiththe
spoon-forkset-upcanfeela bit
127 Hours. Hecooksdownsmoked
troutintoa sweet,gutturalXO
andtossesit throughsuperb
gnocchiinanItalian-Cantonese-
Australianpostcardtohome.
Forsweets,a fudgycardamom
chocolatemousse-cakeis cutely
concealedwithchocolatecrisps
studdedwithsprinkles,butthe
lushsweet-saltyclassicfrom
thePacipop-upofcarrotsorbet
onliquoricecakeunderan
airyyoghurtmoussestillholds
court.Don’tmissit.
I’dsaydon’tmissCafePaci,
butthistimeit’sstaying.What’s
more,it’sbecomemorethingsto
morepeople,fuelledbyPetänen’s
clearmindandsteadyhandbut
ina waythat’slesstricked-up
andmoredelicious.Potatoes
andeggstheremaybe,butas
longasPetänen’scooking them,
we’re in for a ride.●
Right:chocolatewith
maltandcardamom.
Below:flounderwith
sauce Florentine.
CafePaci
131 KingSt,
Newtown,
(02) 9550 6196,
cafepaci.com.au
Licensed
OpenMon-Fri
5.30pm-10pm;
Satnoon-10pm
PricesEntrées
$8-$22,main
courses$26-$38,
desserts$15
VegetarianFour
entrées,two
maincourses
NoiseLoud-ish
Wheelchair
accessYe s
MinusThemusic
couldbebetter
PlusIt’s
permanent,
andit’sa hell
of a package
BACKINBLOOM
Merivaleis pushinga retrofeel
atLotus2.0(above),a revivalof
the2000sbar-bistrothatmadeDan
Hong’sname.Therearenoflares
andnoperms,buttheLotusburger
is backwithcold-smokedbrisketin
thepatty,andthesundaeis assaucy
asever.Inthemixarehandmade
noodleswithscarletprawnsanda
morcilla-calamarinumberthatrecalls
Hong’stimewithBrentSavage.
FranckMoreau’swinelistis typically
astute,whilethebaris itsown
destination. 22 ChallisAve,Potts
Point,(02) 9114 7340,merivale.com
A BIGGERSPLASH
AtBathers’Pavilion, chefSerge
DansereaupartnerswithIanPagent
(MGGarage)tofuture-proofanold
classic.They’venailedthebrief,and
youcouldeasilyspenda wholeday
atthePavilion.Startwithomelettes
andBloodyMarysinthebistro,take
intheBalmoralbreezewitha Spritz
ontheterrace,andsettleatthe
restaurantforjust-setbugtailwith
smokedbutterandnori.Rinseand
repeat.4 TheEsplanade,Mosman,(02)
9969 5050,batherspavilion.com.au
WHOAMAMA
A restaurantbasedonanEsterstaff
meal?EnterShwarmama, a hole
inthewallwithroomfor 10 anda
queue.MatLindsay’smenuis short,
withanassemblylineturningout
chicken(orlamb)shawarmaloaded
withtoumandsmokyharissa,
anda halal-snack-packtribute.At
breakfast,eggplantandeggsabich
makesfriendswithParamount
coffee;Wildflowerbeeranda
coupleofwinessupporttherest.
Shop2,106-112CommonwealthSt,
Surry Hills, shwarmama.com.au
Details
AND ALSO...
GOURMET TRAVELLER 33
Sydney review