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WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Yarri
Cyrillean Way, Dunsborough
If Aaron Carr leaving the kitchen at Vasse Felix after 20-plus years was
cause for concern for Margaret River, the news that he was starting
afresh at Snake + Herring winery was a cause for joy. It’s like Aaron Carr
unplugged: the same inspiration that won him fame, but stripped back,
with more improvisation. The sourdough bread is wood-fired; the duck
and pistachio-nut terrine comes with carrot marmalade.
What to order: is there any arguing with prawns with saltbush and XO?
Wines of While
458 William St, Perth
Wines of While is one of the leaders of Perth’s wine-bar charge. Alongside
spicy juice from imports such as Le Coste and Vincent Caillé you’ll find WA
young guns Sam Vinciullo and Blind Corner. Food leans Mediterranean, and
while the menu descriptors are clipped (“paprika almonds”, “sliced meats”)
there’s nothing less than generous about the flavours on the plate.
What to order: white beans with chilli and lemon are satisfaction in a bowl.
Garum
480 Hay St, Perth
His flagship is the Florentino, he celebrates Venice at Merchant, but Guy
Grossi’s first restaurant outside Victoria is all about Rome. That could
translate to a porchetta panino at the bar, while at the table bucatini
all’Amatriciana and fettuccine carbonara make nice with top-drawer local
produce such as Arkady lamb and Freemantle octopus.
What to order: a section of the menu called Quinto Quarto highlights the
Roman love of ofal in the likes of pickled ox tongue with pear and walnut.
Tiny’s
QV1, E2 250 St Georges Tce, Perth
Is there any more magical menu note than “add whipped cheese, $4”?
Technically it’s just an upgrade for the flatbread and shichimi togarashi
at this savvy wine bar, but there’s no small temptation to add it to one of
the grills (beef intercostal and rhubarb, maybe) or a vegetable (like the
broccoli with roasted yeast).
What to order: roast chicken with a gang, pork sambos if you’re lunching
solo. (With or without the addition of whipped cheese.) ●
The bar at Tiny’s.