88 GOURMET TRAVELLER
J
osh and I opened Fleet just under four years
ago through an act of serendipity. I think we
could write the handbook on everything not to
do. At the time of signing the lease we had no
clear vision of what we were opening – we had
only raised the idea a few weeks before. We
just knew we wanted something that was reflective of us,
our love of produce and genuine hospitality. We imagined
a small neighbourhood restaurant. How wrong we were.
We signed just days after viewing the space, with
no solicitor advice and no business plan, and applied
for any credit card and loan we could be approved for.
Miraculously, through determination, luck and the
generosity of builders, we opened the doors five months
later. It’s been an incredible journey and through it all we
managed to create our ideal restaurant and build a home in
our adopted town. We are so busy for most of the year with
Fleet, but Christmas time is very much treasured for us.
Some of my fondest memories of Christmas growing
up revolve around my oma and opa. Being Dutch
we celebrated on Christmas Eve. They were living in
Frankston at the time and after dinner all the cousins
would visit the town Christmas tree to see the lights.
We’d return to find big white snowy footprints – made
possible with a cardboard cut-out and talcum powder –
leading up the driveway, grass covered, water gone, carrots
half-nibbled. It was all so exciting, and sparked my love of
Christmas, which has only intensified; I subject the boys in
the restaurant to hours of Christmas carols a month before.
More than anything, I love the food and tradition
that surrounds it. I think most families develop their
own Christmas rituals over time, and have dinner-table
stalwarts that must be present every year at the request of
family. Josh and I were both blessed with an abundance
of seafood growing up; my dad was a divemaster andformed one of Victoria’s first formal dive clubs, so
crayfish and abalone were standard. For Josh, well, he
developed sea legs before land legs and has been fishing
for as long as he can remember – a passion that runs
thick and fast through the Lewis family. Rarely did
a week go by that there wasn’t fish on the table, and
Christmas was always a good excuse to go all-out.
Like most families, our tables were a blend of new and
old:glazed ham sharing space with seafood platters and
salads. We continue to celebrate this tradition in our
family, and nowhere is it more appropriate than here
in the Northern Rivers – we have access to some of the
best shellfish and fish the region has to offer.
I am biased, but Josh is one of the most hard-working,
down-to-earth chefs I’ve worked with, and we share a
vision. His approach to food and cooking – presenting
sometimes challenging ingredients in a deceptively simple
and relatable way – first and foremost is always tasty. His
cabbage slaw with roasted yeast dressing, for instance, is
simple and delicious, and a perfect side for whisky-glazed
ham. Next year, as we open our latest restaurant, La
Casita, there may be a few Mexican-inspired dishes on our
Christmas table, too. If that wasn’t enough, we have a baby
on the way. Therefore, this Christmas is about simplicity
and ease, which frees me up to just pour the Champagne.
Fleet, Shop 2/16 The Terrace, Brunswick Heads, NSW,
(02) 6685 1363, fleet-restaurant.com.auMenu
Galah cocktail
Seafood platters
Jo Landron Brut “Atmosphères”
NV, Loire Valley
2015 The Wine Farm Riesling,
Gippsland
Cured mackerel with tomatoes
and sourdough bread
2018 Jilly Lone Ranger
Chardonnay, New England
Whisky and honey-glazed ham
2016 Frederick Stevenson Hongell
Grenache, Barossa Valley
Roast chicken with preserved
lemon and herbs
2017 Latta Tranquil Nebbiolo Rosé
Zero SO2, Ballarat
Asparagus with sheep’s-milk labne
Shredded cabbage and kale with
roasted yeast dressing
Nectarine tarte Tatin with
vanilla and thyme
Amaro Montenegro on ice
Eric Bordelet Poire Granit
pear ciderAstrid McCormack
and Josh Lewis.ALL PROPS RESTAURANT’S OWN.