136 GOURMET TRAVELLER
R
elax. Byron is still Byron. True,
house prices have headed well
north of a million bucks, a cottage
industry has sprung up around
Chris Hemsworth, and the
density of shops that sell floaty
linen and gussied-up camping
gear is greater here than anywhere
else inthe southern hemisphere. But new Benzes and
Beamers rolling through town carry surfboards and
NO COAL SEAM GAS stickers. And the good news for
visitors is that this influx of money has lifted standards,
especially where food, drink and hotels are concerned.
At the top end of the business, there’s excellent
service, beds draped in French linen from Hale
Mercantile and well-crafted lists of drinks taking
in everything from the outré aromatic blends made
by Jared Dixon at Jilly Wines in nearby Clunes to
cool things from Sicily, the Loire, Basket Range
and wherever interesting wine is made. And the
big change in good food is that there’s more of it in
more places, and it’s better and more local than ever.
Local, that is, but Mexican. At least some of the
time. This part of the world has long been enamoured
of variations on the theme of lime, chilli and avocado,
and there’s never been any shortage of places to order
frozen Margaritas and a plate of vegetarian nachos.But now, in an exciting plot twist, three of the best
regarded food operators in the region – Astrid
McCormack and Josh Lewis from Fleet in Brunswick
Heads, Mark LaBrooy and Darren Robertson, aka
the Three Blue Ducks from The Farm at Ewingsdale,
and the team behind Harvest at Newrybar – have
opened or are planning Latin American side ventures.
The quality of tequila and mezcal available in the
Northern Rivers has improved dramatically, while
the likes of sapotes, tomatillos and fresh epazote are
seen at farmers’ markets with growing frequency.
Combine all that goodness with a wave of new chef-
talent, a renewed interest from local farmers in growing
native food plants, lush places tostay, the leafy beauty
of the hinterland, some great coffee and spectacular
beaches and Byron Bay looks more than ever like
the coast with the most. Here’s the latest of the best.EAT AND DRINK
La Casita
A popular chips, chilli and chimichangas joint in
a fishing-and-caravans town is taken over by two
of the Australian food world’s brightest young stars:
Astrid McCormack and Josh Lewis. Tasty things
ensue. What was Gringos is now La Casita, the casual
Mexican offshoot of two-star wine bar Fleet. Everything
you like about Fleet is here, only mostly outside, looser,From left:
Chupacabra;
bacon-and-egg
roll with basil
mayonnaise,
green tomato
relish and Boon
Luck Farm greens
at Ethel; Di Vino’s
co-owners
(from left) Felix
McKenzie, Joe
McMahon, Achille
Martino and head
chef Bruno Conti;
Cape Byron
Lighthouse.
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PAGES Left:
kingfish wings
with soured
cream and caviar
at Raes Cellar
Bar. Right: The
Pass at Byron
Bay; salads and
chickpea and
sweet-potato
patty at Ethel.