VIC
Iki-Jime
The inverted commas around the “fish and chips” at the
Vue Group’s moody seafood restaurant are there for
a reason: this is far from a traditional reading, with raw
tuna wrapped around a nest of crisp-fried potato and
leek and topped with oyster emulsion and pickle powder.
The gorgeous blend of flavours, temperatures and
textures will stop even the purists mid-scoff.430 Little
Collins St, Melbourne, (03) 9691 3838, ikijime.com.auHooked Fish and Chipper
Hooked may be one of the original new school-style fish
and chip shops, meaning it actually cares about salads and
cholesterol, but it still keeps a sharp focus on the main
game. Brittle, crisp batter encases blue grenadier or gummy
flake (there may also be barramundi) that, like the fat,
fluffy, hand-cut chips made with locally grown spuds, is
fried in cottonseed oil.384 Brunswick St, Fitzroy, (03) 9417 7740,
(also in Hawthorn and Windsor), hookedfishandchipper.com.auPaper Fish
Stokehouse’s boardwalk kiosk
is all about sustainable, locally
caught fresh (never frozen) fish,
so the menu changes according
to availability. Blue grenadier
or sustainable gummy shark
make regular appearances,
encased in a lacy, crunchy
tempura-style batter. There
are enthusiastically seasoned
crinkle-cut chips, and a superb
Japanese-style potato cake
made with mashed potato,peas
and carrot, then dunked in
batter and fried, like everything
else, in vegetable oil.Beachside,
Stokehouse Precinct, 30 Jacka Blvd, St
Kilda, (03) 8691 6830, paperfish.com.auAbove: “fish and
chips” of raw
tuna and fried
potato and leek
at Iki-Jime.80 GOURMET TRAVELLER